Friday, November 7, 2014

An American Dream

*so photos in this blog have been taken by a lot of different people, all of our mutual experiences, and shared with me. But yeah, just so you know.


I bet you thought that since I have successfully returned from Benin, you wouldn’t have any more blogs coming from my fingers. But I guess I have just come to love telling the stories of my adventures, and happily for me, the adventures have not stopped!

There…


I would first like to jump back to my former home. I hesitate in sharing this story, because I don’t want you to just chalk it up to Benin being the backwards, superstitious place you always assumed it was. So please, when you’re reading the following paragraphs, try to remember that ignorance, fear, and superstition (even in forms present in America) can breed a lot of terrible things.

I may have mentioned Corneille, Raili’s Beninese boyfriend, in previous entries. He is a primary school teacher, and a really great guy. He has been helpful to us personally (he helped coordinate some things for our camp).

Recently, his entire life was burned to the ground. He was caught up in a town’s eruption into a witchhunt.

Yes, you read that right a witchhunt. If you want a first-hand account, this is a blog written by another volunteer, Raili and I’s friend Ron: http://vraisvoyageurs.tumblr.com/post/100231535535/complications . And I beg that you read this with an aim to understand (but not to ever condone), rather than shrug it off as simply a backwards superstition.

In West Africa, you can see the drastic effects of global warming. The desert is encroaching. The seasons are getting worse. There was little rain this year. This means that people can’t go crops like they are used to. They can’t grow enough to feed their families. Or enough to have extra money. They can’t pay to treat medical conditions. Three children from the same family die in the same week from grave malaria.

And people need someone to blame. This world doesn’t make sense. In what world should your crops fail, your children die? And who is a convenient person to blame? That woman. The woman with a car. And money. Women shouldn’t have cars. Cars are luxuries for men. Why should this woman, an outsider, have a car, when there are some men who can’t feed their families? Because witch hunts, historically and today, are rooted in misogyny. A way to restore order. Keep women down, in their proper place.

Months ago, right after the three children in one family died, this woman was accused of being a witch, and she took that car and drove to Ghana, to escape. She owned a group of houses/apartments, including the one that our friend Corneille was living in. Everyone else there fled. They did not want to live in a witch’s house. Corneille stayed, telling people that questioned him that even if she was truly a witch, she wouldn’t want anyone to know, so she would protect him.

I suppose he never imagined that some people would decide to take matters into their own hands. More recently there was a cholera outbreak, and people were more scared and frustrated. The king in town refused to call in a traditional healer to find the witches and stop the cholera outbreak. He understands the science behind the spread of the disease.

So the king’s house was burned down. The house and car owned by this well-off woman was also burned. Corneille and Raili watched as the entirety of Corneille’s physical possessions went up in flame. The military was called in to restore order, and Raili and Ron have been removed from their villages.

It really breaks my heart. I want to rage at these Beninese for being so stupid, ignorant, hateful. For letting superstition get the best of them. For directing their rage at innocent people. For targeting outsiders, women, blaming them for their own failures and the failures of the environment and really the global scene. We are responsible for global warming in America, we are hurting their crops. The West has systematically under-developed Africa, and the people there suffer in poverty. They can’t burn down the West in retaliation. So they burn down the house of the woman that did a little better, including the house of a man who does the incredible task of teaching the community’s children.

But I beg of you to realize that we are not so different. “Oh yes,” you might think, “we had our own witch problems. Hundreds of years ago, in Salem, the most notable case.”

In 1953 The Crucible was published about the Salem Witch Trials. But it wasn’t because the author, Arthur Miller was suddenly interested in this historical event. It was because he saw a similar drama unfolding before him. Only we were more advanced. We didn’t call it sorcery any more. We called it communism.

And when you think about it, witch-hunts are just about superstitions. They’re about restoring order in this tumultuous world. They are about fighting something we don’t fully understand. Something that really only exists in the abstract. They are ways of punishing people for not conforming. A way of attacking outsiders or political enemies.

In the 1950s we engaged in a witch-hunt for communists. Today we are hunting “terrorists”. And it can be just as life-ruining for innocent people. Think about all the Arab-looking people (including those who are not even remotely Arab at all) who have been physically attacked for resembling something we fear. We try to chase out outsiders, who we feel have no right to security when we don’t feel safe. There are a lot of hate crimes against Arab-Americans, and even discrimination in airports or in interactions with police, a feeling of not being welcome in many communities. It’s a way to help us keep order. To protect ourselves from the “other”. And fight a force that is really difficult to define and/or identify—be it sorcery, communism, or terrorism.

So this is my plea to you. Don’t write off this story as simply an African problem of ignorance. Be sad for the victims, hope and pray for their recovery [and if you really want to, follow instructions on this page (Raili’s blog: http://journeydujourbenin.blogspot.com/2014/10/help-us-rebuild.html ) to donate to this fund which will go to Corneille to help him start rebuilding his life]. But also look around at our fear of the “other.” This can have grave consequences is we let that fear and resentment build up against certain groups of people. We need to take the time to sit down with others—even outsiders—and just talk, share our lives. You start to realize that everyone is human, and can’t be painted with a broad brush, based on their race or place of origin or sex. It really breaks my heart where we still live in a world that everyone can get so riled up against a supposed foe, not based on evidence, but based on prejudice. We can all do better.

…And Back Again


Luna and I made it to America safe and sound. It was quite a long journey, and poor Luna was very confused as to why she had to sit in a carrier for over 24 hours. She didn’t have to be quarantined or anything; I just had papers saying that she has her rabies shot. Though, it didn’t seem to matter, as people hardly noticed that I was carrying a cat and not one person even bothered to look at my papers for her. I hope that makes you feel safe.

Sadly, one of my suitcases did not make it to America, and it is still missing. I kept hoping that it will show up, but at this point it seems unlikely.

I had to stay behind and file a report for my missing bag, and then I got shunted off into the extra-security checkpoint as I attempted to leave Dulles (apparently randomly, but I suspect it had something to do with me being out of the country for over two years). And, of course, though Dulles has wifi, my phone refuses to work with it. So I am stuck with these extra delays, and no way to call my poor mother, who is waiting for me at the exit. She apparently talked to one of the airport information people, who helped by suggesting that maybe I didn’t even make it onto the plane in Turkey. I finally make it through moments before my mom goes into high-worrying mode.

My first bit of culture shock came when we went to get drive-through food. We pulled up to the window, I looked down at Luna, and then the next thing I knew, we were pulling away. “Wait, what?” I ask. “We already paid AND got our food?” We had. Life in America is fast!

And just so everyone knows, I did in fact get all of my first-day-back meals I wrote about earlier (bagel with cream cheese, cucumbers and Sriracha; salad with ALL THE VEGGIES, and cheesy crab dip from The Main Cup), though not necessarily in the exact order.

The following week was filled with a lot of family. My uncle Ken flew in with Paula, all the way from Portland; my uncle Jeff flew in from Atlanta; and my sister Jessica from Vail, Colorado. Then obviously, my grandmothers and sister Danielle were already in the area. Jessica, Danielle, Mom and I had some bonding nights with delicious mixed drinks and fun conversation. The Saturday after my return, the whole family (including my cousin Nikki and her family) was at my mom’s house. We started off with mimosas in the morning, and then I got to have some of my delicious FIREFLY Sweet Tea Vodka. Bob made excellent pulled pork and Jeff cooked peppers and pineapple on the grill. We had shrimp from Weis, and my grandmother brought her pasta salad. It was a very delicious day. I was so happy to be surrounded by my family and be able to enjoy their company as well as incredible food.

Mimosas in the morning!

Family Pic!


Wednesday, I went over to Nanny’s house. I got to see her and Todd, and she fixed an excellent meal involving a lot of fried shrimp, fries, rolls, etc. It was another wonderful night.

It was really, really fantastic to see my family. With the exception of Mom and Bob, I hadn’t seen anyone for over two years. Sure, I shared my blogs with them, got occasional emails, plus had a few skype sessions. But even those aren’t the same as actually seeing your family, sitting down and joking, and just basking in the others presence. Of course, this is even better when doing it with satisfying food, and pleasant drinks, so basically you can simply feel ALL OF THE GOOD THINGS.

I also went up to New Jersey, where my friend Diane lives. She’s had quite the past two years, including working an awesome job in New York (HR for a nice hotel), until that became too much, and she decided to live in Puerto Rico for a few months, before moving back to the Jersey Shore, where she grew up, and starting her own business selling coffee. For over 100 days straight, she worked her little stand on her own. When I got there, she was getting ready to sell it; she just had to wait until the end of the month. She joked about how she’s accomplished everything she ever wanted to (NY job and life, living in the Caribbean, and owning her own business). So, now what?

I happened to be there for Rosh Hashanah, so I went with Diane to her Dad’s house, where we had apples and honey (to symbolize a sweet year), challah bread, and gefilte fish (my first time having that), and delicious brisket. I kept my mouth closed whenever politics came up (Diane’s family being NJ conservatives, and not at all in to Obama). When I mentioned that I would be traveling to South Africa on Ethiopian Air, Diane’s grandfather told me all about Haile Selassie, which I thought was very interesting.

The next day it was raining, which meant that Diane did not have to work at her outside stand. Instead we relaxed a bit, before going to the Pitbull & Enrique Inglesias concert in Madison Square garden. We stayed with one of her friends in North Jersey, and took the bus into New York. The concert was very fun, and then we got some New York pizza afterwards. I really love my life.

At the Pitbull Concert


So then I went back home, just in time to pack up for a cross-country trip. I have two weddings to attend in October, one in Arizona, and one in New Mexico. Since it seems silly to fly out twice, I just decided to drive, and turn it into an epic roadtrip. And so it was. Here is the story of that adventure:

ROADTRIP

My route, approximately

 Thursday, October 2nd – Sunday, October 5th

Home to Atlanta


At the very last minute, Diane decides to join me on this roadtrip. She has just sold her coffee business, and is ready to get out of NJ. The Jersey shore is awesome for summer, but not so much the rest of the year. Additionally, she has some unfinished romantic business in Phoenix, AZ, where I just so happen to be headed.

I have missed driving so much! I didn’t own a vehicle and Benin (per PC policy), and besides, it would have been a nightmare to drive. But oh how I have missed sitting in the drivers seat, switching the gears (I have a manual transmission) with gusto, speeding, slowing, turning, all this power literally in my hands. Blasting my favorite tunes, rolling down the window and singing along. The bass booms, and I am free to drive away to pass by beautiful scenery and stop by friends’ residences. I am the god of my movements. Well, at least until there is traffic.

The drive to Atlanta is long, but not hard. It was really nice to drive through the hills of Georgia, especially in the fall the leaves are changing, and it was just beautiful. Even as I was driving, I was hit by just how beautiful America is. We really do live in an incredible nation, with all kinds of beautiful scenery.

I spent the weekend with my Uncle Jeff and Aunt Fran. Fran made me some delicious sweet tea, and Jeff did some excellent cooking on the grill. I got to have great conversations with both of them as well. I managed to keep Jeff up until 1:30AM two nights in a row, just drinking and talking. I think he only slightly regretted it. Perhaps the hangover wasn’t the best, but I like to think that an enrapturing conversation with your niece makes it worth it (IT BETTER!). I finally managed to return a book I’d borrowed from Jeff over 10 years ago. He had written it off as gone, but I finally remembered to bring it. So we had somewhat nerdy session, just talking about books (especially fantasy) and other things, and then a little about politics.

Ryan and Seun came over with Colin. Oh my, has he grown in the past two years! He is an adorable kid, ready to bring you a beer, at his father’s bidding. And full of questions! At night, he went to look up at the sky, and was excited to see the moon. He kept shining his flashlight up into the sky, and didn’t understand why this wasn’t helping him see the moon better. I had to restrain myself from launching into an explanation that the moon is actually a reflection of the sun’s light, and therefore, you don’t need to shine any light on it, and in fact… well let’s just say this might have gone over his head, and perhaps if I have kids one day, I’ll need to come up with short and sweet, understandable answers.

Monday, October 6th

Atlanta to New Orleans


Today, Diane and I left bright and early from Atlanta. The traffic is always horrible there, but luckily the direction we were heading meant that we avoided most of it. Most of the trip to New Orleans was smooth sailing, except for one part where we came to a complete stop due to an accident up the road. We were only stopped for maybe a half an hour, during which Diane decided to record us jamming to a song. In New Orleans, we stayed with my friend Karien, who was also in Peace Corps Benin.

Diane and I in NOLA


We went and had delicious Creole food and walked around downtown New Orleans. It really is such a cool city! I love New Orleans chill and friendly attitude. We walked around and got sweet beignets. Then we went and got a daiquiri, got stopped by drag queens who just wanted to chat with us and invite us to the show later. I love that it’s warm there, has French-esque names, and wonderful greenery. Diane and I went out with Karien as well, and at some point asked her if she wanted to go on a roadtrip with us. She agreed, bought a plane ticket from Denver for two weeks later, and the next day left with us.

Tuesday, October 7th

New Orleans to Austin


Before leaving, however, we went to get po-boys. Karien informed me that in New Orleans the best food can be found in grocery stores. (I thought this was weird at first, but then I remembered often getting friend chicken, etc, from this gas station in Hagerstown.) We got 30-inch fried catfish po-boys, and they were everything I ever dreamed of. While we were waiting for the sandwich to be made, I had to resist from trying to buy everything else there. So many fried things! Yumm!

Alas, I was able to tear myself away. We went back to Karien’s house, then we started off on our roadtrip.

In the Car


We took a route through the Bayou, which was fun. A lot of our days was just driving, until we arrived in Austin, TX. Since we had started a little later in the day, we got in kind of late. We stayed with some friend of Karien’s from school. He happened to be in Peace Corps, but in South America. We shared a bunch of stories from abroad, before going to bed.

Wednesday, October 8th

Austin to El Paso


Today was a very long drive. Diane was sad because she had always wanted to go to Austin, and now we only had a few hours. But we did stop downtown, got coffee at a cute coffee shop, and admired the city. Austin has a really cool reputation, and I’m sad that both times I’ve been through, I’ve only gotten a short glimpse.

As we were on the road that morning, Diane told us a little story. She happened to wake up really, and as she was on her phone, realizing the eclipse is happening. So she runs outside in her PJs, looking up at the sky, trying to figure out where this is occurring in the sky. Then she looks around, and realizes that productive people are actually up, either jogging, or perhaps getting in their cars to go to work. So she must have looked like a crazy person, but all she really wanted to see was a cool eclipse!

We moved onto other topics. One of the constant one was always Ebola. Karien and I have recently returned from West Africa, so first of all, we knew about the current outbreak before a lot of other people in the US, but also, it is a topic that always rears its head when we mention our former home. At this point, such a thing isn’t really bothering me, but it really bothers Diane. Every time she mentions to a family member that I am back, they always ask if I have Ebola. People tell her to make sure before meeting up with me. But, oops, she got in a car with me to drive across the country.

The constant worry about Ebola did start bothering me as the trip went on. After spending some time with one individual, and taking the time to explain the realities of Ebola and how it was impossible for me to have it, they messaged me later to confirm, that I truly didn’t have it. I initially feelt insulted that they would think that if I even had a suspicion that I might be incubating Ebola, my natural decision would be “Well, I should drive across the country and see how far I get before I get to infect a bunch of unsuspecting people in some random town in America,” and resisted the urge to tell them to look at a damn map, and realize that they, as a Dallas resident have been geographically closer to an Ebola patient than I ever was my entire time in West Africa. I sent them a message, again, explaining the disease further and pleading for them to spread the knowledge and not break out into panic. I keep getting thing in my facebook newsfeed (and defriended another person for spreading too much panicky stuff) about it. And I hate the theme is hardly ever—at least among non-Peace Corps volunteers— “Oh my, THOUSANDS of Africans have died, we should really do something,” but an “Oh no, we might have a few people in the States come back with it, so we should protect ourselves.” I hate the philosophy—whether it’s about Ebola, poverty, drugs, terrorism, whatever—that we don’t care or that we shouldn’t focus on solving those problems wherever they might exist in the world, but only we should make sure that it doesn’t cross our borders. Where’s the empathy, the humanity? And furthermore, I think it would be far more effective to root the problem out at its cause, not just try to put up a fence. Or a dome, if we’re so worried about air travel.

Then, of course, there are the crazy people that put out conspiracy theories. The CDC is hiding the “facts” about Ebola (except, oh wait, it’s their job to spread knowledge about diseases). Obama started Ebola. ISIS terrorists will bring Ebola to the States. The craziness goes on. So we decided to make up some of our own, more outrageous headlines, which got more ridiculous as the drive went on.

We laughed a bit, and looked around at the scenery. My uncle had warned me repeatedly that driving along I-10 (which we did, despite his recommendation to never, ever, ever, take this route) was the most boring thing you could do. But we were seeing a whole new scenery. Yes, everything was very flat, but the skies looked so incredibly wide. The clouds were suspended in a surreal fashion, it just looked so cool. Even though the ground was brown, and the vegetation plain (mostly shrubs), it simply looked so different. We were all enraptured, and definitely thought, hmm, your uncle is just ridiculous.

And we see a mountain (really a hill) jut up from the ground. “Oooh…it looks so cool!” we all proclaim.

Then it takes three hours to reach that mountain (hill). And it’s flat again. Until we see another mountain (hill) pop up in the distance.



In the end, I think the drive was overall striking. But later I realized that I think coming from the east coast, so something we’re really not used to, it was more novel. But when you’re driving back from the West Coast, where you’re constantly seeing desert-esque scenes, or simply dry landscapes, and get to view incredible, actual mountains, Texas and the like can seem just so boring, especially when it extends for over 12 hours. But it was a really great way to start out; the scenes ONLY got better from there!

At some rest stop in TX


We stayed the night in El Paso. There, Karien had found us some couchsurfing hosts. For those of you who don’t know what this is, couchsurfing is basically a website where you can travel and stay with people (presumably on their couch) for free. It sounds a little scary, but it’s not really. According to Karien, the way things are set up mean that the couchsurfing community insists on a laid-back attitude. A lot of people travel this way, but are also expected to open up their house (if possible). And you can always leave reviews. So Karien has a rule that she only stays with people who have reviews. It is unfortunate that this has to be a rule; that you can’t just trust people. But this is the world we live in. She reads through the profiles to find people to sound cool, and the through the reviews to make sure they aren’t crazy or anything. Karien has also hosted a bunch of people as well, and just raves about every experience. You get to meet really cool, open, chill people that you probably wouldn’t have met otherwise. So anyway, in El Paso we stayed with three people, a brother, sister, and cousin. The sister wasn’t around much (I think she was at work), but we went out and got drinks and food with the two guys. We had a fun discussion before heading to bed, and then the next day headed onward to Phoenix.



NICOLE’S WEDDING

Thursday October 9th – (the morning of) Sunday October 12th

Phoenix, AZ


Today we drove up through a bit of New Mexico and then Arizona. We were truly in the desert now. I dropped Diane off where she was meeting her friend, then Karien off at another couchsurfer’s house. I then drove to Nicole’s house. Nicole is my best friend from High School. She was a year behind me in school, but we had some classes together (including strength training). Her mom, Helen, also worked for my parents (and then I was under her supervision when doing work for them), and I’ve dogsat for her multiple times. Nicole and I have managed to keep in touch over the years, even though we have lived in very different parts of the country/globe. And Helen tells me she will always be ready to give me a glowing recommendation!

On the way to Nicole’s house, my GPS decides to fail me, in not believing that her address is an actual place. I suspected that maybe this area where she lives was built up after my GPS was made, but I’m not sure. So anyway, I had to pull over, look up the address on my phone. Then my phone tells me it can’t give me verbal directions, because I haven’t downloaded the verbal package yet. Oh and also the signal isn’t the greatest. So I just sit there and try to memorize the names, etc, and go for it. I made it to Nicole’s house, only after a minor breakdown where I was on her street, but couldn’t actually read the house numbers, and shouted to no one in particular, “AMERICA IS SUPPOSED TO BE EASY!!!” (I’ve said this a lot since coming home)

However, once I actually made it into Nicole’s house, I got to meet her fiancé and his best men, who happened to be making fajitas, and life just got better from there! The fajitas were delicious. Then, on the bed Nicole provided for me, there was a little package with goodies (water, mini bottle of wine, candy, cookies, etc), and a nice note on the front thanking me for coming to the wedding. I just had this moment of “Oh my god, this is what it’s like to grow up! I will get to do cute things!”

Then I panicked a little about growing up and needing to be responsible and not do whimsical things like couchsurf across the country. I’m not sure though, I think you can remain open to people and adventure even when you grow up; I don’t see why not!

I was asked by someone there how on earth I could manage to take a month-long roadtrip, what with the costs and the not-working. I replied that I had lived at home a few years ago and saved up a lot of money. He replied, “I live at home! And I can’t figure out how to save!” So I felt better about my life decisions. Granted, most of that aforementioned money is gone, paying for this little thing called a Masters Degree, but the fact that I did pay for it with only a tiny amount of student loans was awesome. Plus Peace Corps gives a small readjustment allowance to help buy things like clothes that are A) not covered in dirt, B) not full of holes, and C) somewhat in style, as well as other things to help get you on your feet as you “readjust” to life in America. I just feel proud of myself that I can have all these adventures, while still being responsible financially (ISH).

The next day, Friday, we had a little bachelorette day. Nothing too crazy, we just went and had lunch, and then got a mani/pedi. I remember coming back to America and just being SO EXCITED to be clean and pretty again. As in not being able to rub balls of dirt off my body, and occasionally wearing makeup; being able to wear my hair down without it turning into a sweaty mess. Now here I am, getting a pedicure (with the added bonus of a massage chair). My feet are cleaned off, and in fact I think this is the cleanest they’ve been in over two years. It was a really nice, relaxing day, followed by a brief rehearsal for the wedding, and then a nice dinner at Helen’s.

Helen is a born host, and of course had bottles of wine everywhere. There was delicious salsa and guacamole with chips, and later we were served salad, burger, and ALL of the good things. It was so delicious, and I’m fairly certain I gained 10 pounds that night alone (so much for all the weight I lost in Peace Corps.) I didn’t really know many people, except for Nicole and Helen, her mother, and one girl Michelle, who I briefly met on a few occasions through Nicole. But I ended up sitting at a table, chatting with some other guests. Helen made a point to make sure everyone I was sitting next to knew I was fresh back from the Peace Corps. She says she is just so impressed with my work, and wants everyone else to be as well, I suppose. I was chatting to one woman who actually had daughter who had spent time in Africa (I think in the Peace Corps, but I can’t remember correctly). She told me that when I talked about Africa and working in development, I just had that “glow.” I joke that the “glow” might be the wine, but she responded, no, just look at your face, your smile. You love talking about Africa, you are getting so excited just talking about the work you did. You’ll definitely go back. And do even more amazing things then you did last time.” I was really flattered by everyone that I talked to.

Saturday was the big day. We woke and had breakfast, then all the girls went to get their hair done. Finally, we headed to the wedding venue. My room was the only one available, so I opened it up for all my fellow bridesmaids. We put makeup on and what not, and then our dresses. After this we headed to the room where Nicole would get ready. Her dress was there, and one of her mom’s friends did her makeup. There were a bunch of pictures taken, until finally it was go time.

Bride and Bridesmaids

Me and Nicole


It was bittersweet, because Nicole’s father, Jim, died three years ago (about a year and a half after my dad). They placed a photo of Nicole and Jim together, where he should have been sitting, and Nicole’s mom and brother walked her down the aisle. It was very sweet, but I definitely teared up (And again, when Nicole and Helen did a mother-daughter dance). The ceremony was short, but very sweet. The couple looked very happy and in love, and that was good to see.

Of course afterwards was a million more pictures, then we had our grand entrance. Nicole wanted us each to dance. I, of course was terrified to have all eyes on me while I’m freestyling a dance. Luckily another bridesmaid felt the same way. So we decided that the three bridesmaids would enter together. Then the two Maids of Honor and Best Men would enter as two separate couples. This worked very well, and we just went for it. Later, another wedding guest complimented us, saying that it really turned up the energy in the room, and made the mood of the party much better. I had to admit that it was none of my doing, but all Nicole’s idea!

The food was great, and Michelle’s mother was kind enough to offer to grab drinks for the bridal party when she went up to the bar. All the bridesmaids ordered Long Island Iced Teas, which I feel was a great start to the night, even though they weren’t that strong.

Fun Photobooth Photo


After dinner the dance party started. I was looking forward to this. But the music was not my generation (think Michael Jackson and Prince, etc). I wasn’t really sure how to dance to it. So I got another LIT, and sat there drinking it, until one of the ladies I had talked with the previous night dragged me onto the dance floor. I danced a lot, but sometimes I just really couldn’t feel the songs. Then they put on the Wobble, my fav dance/hustle, and it was off from there. I spent most of the rest of the night dancing. Then there was a photo booth, where you could dress up in ridiculous costumes and take pictures. I did that a few times with the bridal party, and then went back to dancing, taking breaks during songs I knew less.

At 9:00PM, the bar stopped being an open bar, and turned to cash-only. This is when I broke out my flask. However, by 9:15, I swear, half of the guests were gone, and by 9:30, it was only the bridal party and really close family and friends. I kind of laughed at that, and joked that apparently people were only here for the free booze. But I think the timing was intentional, to get people out so there were only a few left when the party officially ended at 10:00PM. There was some after-party drinking and chatting in someone’s hotel room, but I was tired and ended up just going to bed.

Sunday, Helen had a nice brunch, complete with an entire huge beverage dispenser full of mimosas! The meal was wonderful again, and I had fun chatting with more people. One lady, as I sat down said, “Oh look, here is the dancer!” and I blushed, and the other woman scolded me, saying, “Yes this same girl who thought she couldn’t dance at first!” I just laughed and told them I just had to get into it.


ON WITH THE ROADTRIP

Sunday, October 12th (Afternoon)

Phoenix to Flagstaff, AZ


At long last, it was time to say goodbye. I had another part of my journey to get to, so I went and collected my stuff, from Nicole’s then picked up Karien in downtown Phoenix. She had had a wonderful time hanging out with the couchsurfing hosts. But now we were on to Flagstaff. We decided to drive through Tonto National Forest, which was really beautiful. It was amazing to see the changes as we rose in elevation. Phoenix is, of course, in a low, flat area of the desert. So when we initially left it and headed into the National Forest, it was all cactus and low shrubs, which was cool. But then we kept climbing (Flagstaff is at about 7000ft above sea level), and we saw much different vegetation, including evergreen trees and what not.




We got into Flagstaff after dark, and made dinner. Then our host informed us that he had a hot tub and would we like to use it (of course). So we sat around and relaxed, possibly for way to long. But we felt refreshed and relaxed; ready for the next part of our adventure.

Monday, October 13th

Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon, to Tuba City


We got up early to leave, but also managed to stop in a little coffee shop in Flagstaff. Our trek to the Grand Canyon commenced, after a few wrong turns. I guess I forget what it’s like to think of seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time (this is my third). Along the way, I kept being like, oh let’s pull off and see this other thing; let’s stop at the visitor’s center, yadda yadda, until Karien is finally just like, “PLEASE CAN WE JUST SEE THE ACTUAL GRAND CANYON!” So we finally parked and headed towards it. And even the third time; it’s still such an incredible view. Just this huge rut in the ground of a size that I’m not sure one is ever able to comprehend. It just goes on and on. And that place across the way (to the north) is actually a thousand feet higher than where you’re standing. You can only just sit there and bask in the grand majesty of it.

The only acceptable pose at the Grand Canyon



It was also nice because there weren’t so many people there. We did run into some French tourists and delighted in their expressions of “Magnifique!” and “Incroyable!” I really love the French language. It’s so nice to hear. Oh and then one guy said something along the lines of, “Well, at least if I fall, my resting place will be beautiful.”

We stopped at multiple overlooks, and at one actually made ourselves lunch. Then we just casually ate while looking out on one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

After admiring the view, and of course taking plenty of pictures of us and this background, we headed off to where we’d be staying for the night. It was Tuba City, inside of the Hopi Reservation. I chose that so we’d have all day to get through the Grand Canyon, and not have to rush.

Finding the hotel was interesting because the one we were looking for actually no longer existed (yeah, thanks Google Maps). We drove around in circles for about 20 to 30 minutes before we accepted defeat. Then we went on to another hotel I’d written down, where we easily found the place. Just another GPS fail. Sigh. Maybe it’s time to invest in a new one.

Tuesday, October 14th

Painted Desert, Canyon de Chelly, Monument Valley


The next morning we got up early, since we had a long days drive ahead of us. Now I had driven through the Painted Desert before, so I planned on a different route. This took me more south, and I think I missed some of the actual desert part. But along this route, we got to see Canyon de Chelly. I had actually never heard of this National Monument before. But I stumbled across it while planning the route, so we stopped there. The canyon was cool, with rocks that had swirling patterns, and rocks that just dropped down into the canyon floor. There was a really open surface on the bottom, meaning plenty of room for people to have lived and farm there historically (and today as well).

Painted Desert

Top of Canyon de Chelly

Looking down in Canyon de Chelly


We continued on through Monument Valley, which is always incredible. And then we wanted to go to the Four Corners. But Karien and I both happened to be out of cash completely, and we couldn’t pay the entrance fee. So we simply continued on to Durango, where we would be staying for the night.

There we met up with our cool couchsurfing host, who promptly invited us to the open mike night she was hosting. She was a pretty rad individual, and at this open-mike night played songs on the accordion that she had actually written herself! Colorado seemed pretty cool; very clean and everyone is outdoors-y. The bad part, however, is the terrible lack of diversity. I think I saw one black person the entire time I was there, and he simply looked like he had stumbled into the state accidentally.

Wednesday, October 15th

Canyon of the Ancients, Mesa Verde


Looking towards the mountains from Western Colorado

Today we headed off to see two sites in the Southwest corner of Colorado. The first was Canyon of the Ancients, which is only a national monument (no “park” status). The visitor’s office (also the Anasazi Heritage Center) was in a very random place, but it had a very interesting and informative display. There were examples of many of the artifacts found in the area, as well as a replica of the traditional kivas/pueblas used in the area.

View from the Vistor's Center


The actual sites at Canyon of the Ancients are hard to find. They are located down various dirt roads with helpful names such as “Co Road P”, and that don’t necessarily stay in a straight line. There are parking spaces and trails, as well as a few signs, but for the most part there were just ruins that you could see. Some were very defined walls; others lumps of rocks that had tumbled down. Many signs mentioned that to the “trained eye” (say, an actual archeologist) these ruins would make a lot more sense. Nevertheless, it was still an interesting experience. I marveled at how small the rooms/houses were, and Karien pointed out that most likely the majority of activities took place outside. With no technology, such as TVs and computers, to keep you inside, why stay in the dark? And furthermore, it would take a lot of effort to build huge homes by hand, so why not just throw up the necessary shelter, and take the majority of activities outside?

One of the sites


Next we headed to Mesa Verde. This park is more structured, obviously. We go there a little late, and wouldn’t have been able to make the actual guided hikes to some of the ruins. However, we drove along the routes to the various sites. The drive itself was absolutely gorgeous! It is fall, so all the leaves were turning and the colors were just amazing! We drove up to the highest point of the park, which is where the fire tower is located. The view was really great. We were cold, however, and thought back to just mere days before when we were in the sunny, hot desert of Arizona. We also got to see many of the sites, which were much more intact than those at Canyon of the Ancients. Additionally, they just looked so cool being built into the side of cliffs (well some of them, there were also ones just built normal, on flat ground).

Highest Point in Mesa Verde




We eventually headed back to Durango as the sun was setting. Our host’s friend brought over some vegetables from his farm, which we cooked and ate, so that was pretty good!

Thursday, October 16th (Morning)

San Juan National Forest, Glenwood Canyon


My Uncle Ken has told me repeatedly that the drive north from Durango through San Juan National Forest is one of the prettiest drives in the entire country. I was finally was able to listen to his advice, and took this route. It was indeed very gorgeous, and even more so this time of year! It was cool to go up and down a bunch of mountains, and even into this little town called Silverton, where we shuddered at the idea of being snowed in to the point of having zero access to any food/modern conveniences, etc, so we moved on before the snow could catch us.


One of the streams beside the road. Filled with Iron(?), giving it this color.


After that we drove up towards Grand Junction, and then got on I-70. We were able to drive through Glenwood Canyon, which according to Wikipedia, people have “praised the engineering achievement required to build the freeway through the narrow gorge while preserving the natural beauty of the canyon”. I do agree, it was quite remarkable. We got to drive in the middle of this gorgeous canyon, and even better it meant not having to really mess up our gas mileage by going up and down over mountains.

Glenwood Canyon


The other cool thing was that there is a bike path that actually parallels (and by that I mean weaves back and forth under) the highway. This trip has really inspired me to bike more. I’ve heard it’s such a different way to see everything. You’re obviously going slower, so you see more than just speeding by in a car. Obviously, it might take a lot longer to get places, especially trying to cross large distances. But I wouldn’t even be opposed to driving around to cool parks and then biking from there. I’m even considering getting a fold-up bike that is easy to pack. But idk if it could even be small enough to, say, take with me to foreign countries. So I’ll have to think about that in conjunction with my life plans.

Thursday, October 16th – (the Morning of) Sunday, October 19th

Vail, CO


Finally, we made it into Vail, where my sister Jessica lives. I was very excited to be able to see the life she’s made out here. She works mostly for a fine-dining establishment. However, since this is the “off-season” or as locals apparently call it, the “mud-season”, she is not currently working. The first night we stayed in, while Karien made us a nice dinner (she is a really amazing cook). The next day Jessica decided to take us on a hike. Now, my mother and sister Danielle had visited over the summer, and there hike ended with them surrendering to the high altitude and letting Jessica continue on while they went back to the car and chatted until she returned.

So Jessica said that she had learned her lesson. Even though the actual trail was relatively easy, it started at about 12,000ft. So, unless you’re used to the altitude, it’s hard to hike. So instead, she took Karien and I to a trail that was only at about 9,000ft and went up to about 10,000. There were some hard inclines, where Jessica (who has been hiking 14ers all summer) waited patiently at the top for us, but for the most part the trail was flat. There was a bit of snow that we had to trudge through, much to Karien (the southern Louisiana native)’s dismay. We made it to a beautiful little lake at the end, which was nice. And with 3.7 miles each way, we felt pretty accomplished and proud of ourselves!

Along the Path

Jess and I at the Lake


The next day we went into Vail Village, which is this nice little spot in the center of Vail. It is all bricked, and mostly reserved for pedestrians and buses. It strongly reminded me of the town of Whister, Canada, which I guess makes sense, since they are both ski towns. We walked around a bit and then went and had dinner at a French restaurant. It was very good, including the wine. After this, we went back to Jessica’s apartment. We hung out there a bit, pregamed, and then took the bus back into Vail Village. Unfortunately, being the off season, not much was open. There was a cool basement bar that we went to, and had fun chatting together, as well as playing this dice game. One other bar was open, which was having a live singing performance. I’m not really a fan of those (just let me vibe/shake to a DJ spinning songs I know, thanks!) We ended up having a really fun night, and rode the bus back, safe and sound to Jessica’s apartments. I think it’s so cool that there is a free bus servicing this area. Jessica said that it was less frequent, being the off-season, but it still wasn’t bad. I wish this was a more prominent option everywhere. Safe traveling! Yay!

Vail Village

Just beside Vail Village


 Sunday, October 19th – Tuesday, October 21st

Colorado Springs and Denver


Sunday we left Jessica’s place. Karien and I had grand plans to get up and out nice and early, but they did not exactly work out. We were quite sluggish come morning, and it took us a while to get out of bed, let alone ready to leave. We set off east, and just outside of Denver, turned south to go to Colorado Springs. Jessica had recommended the Garden of the Gods, a state park. We had also considered driving up to the top of Pike’s Peak, but given our time constraints, that was quite impossible.

Walking and driving around Garden of the Gods with many families out for a relaxing Sunday, reminded me of the many Sundays spent in local parks with my family. Although, I do have to say, “Sorry, Maryland, but you ain’t got nothing on this park.” Okay, Maryland may have some cool things. But the beautiful rocks, the landscape, the view of the Rockies. It was all really incredible. Again, I found myself longing for a bike I could just pack up; there were many cool looking trails, and it would be cool just to spend the day pedaling around.

View of Pike's Peak from the Park

Balanced Rock, one of the many cool formations


Once we were done with perusing the park, we headed up back to Denver, where we were staying with another nice Couchsurfing host. Monday we went on a short tour of micro-breweries. Colorado is very into its beer-brewing. Unfortunately, for those of you who don’t know me, I hate beer. It is the worst. It is calories and bad taste and nothing else. However, when in Rome, so I decided to try it out. At the first bar, I was informed that they made “beer cocktails” which is basically beer and liquor together. I tried it out, and it wasn’t really the worst thing ever. The flavored liquor covered up some of the beer, but there was still a bit of that horrid aftertaste. But after that, I just stuck with my mixed drinks.

Somehow Karien and I, the diehard feminists that we are, got on the subject of street harassment. Our host—a male—seemed very intrigued by this. He admitted to not really knowing much about it, or having witnessed it. But we explained that it often happens when other men aren’t really looking or at least noticing. We said the #yesallwomen have a story, and he said he would ask his female friends if they did. Oftentimes women aren’t comfortable talking about it. We’re told we’re crazy or overreacting, or simply not fun/cool. It’s sometimes hard to get comfortable talking about it, even with other females. But once those floodgates open, sometimes there’s not stopping them. Every female has a story about when she was harassed, felt unsafe, or worse. I just think it’s really important for us to increase awareness about this issue.

The next day I left Karien in Denver. It was a sad goodbye; I really enjoyed traveling with her for the two weeks. I then drove down the Albuquerque, NM.

 NJC REUNION & Caitlin’s Wedding

Tuesday, October 21st (Night) – Sunday, October 26th

Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Taos, & Ghost Ranch (Abiquiu)


Three years ago when I ventured to Oklahoma to complete my grad school program, I honestly didn’t expect to do many cool things or meet many cool people. Oklahoma represented a flat, empty wasteland of dust and conservatism that I would tolerate so that I might get a degree before heading off to my grand adventure of Peace Corps. Even within a month, I realized how very wrong I was. I managed to meet the most amazing group of people, who were mostly part of the International Studies program, like me. There were students from all over America and the world. All of us were smart and funny, and constantly in Sarcasm Mode. We partied together, studied together, and took Oklahoma by storm. We survived tornados (just barely). That was the year I really grew into myself. Before I’d have acquaintances/friends and we’d hang out. I’d usually be chill enough just to go with the flow. Most of my relationships didn’t survive the tides of time, with pretty much the only exceptions being Nicole and Diane. But here, in Oklahoma, I became so comfortable around this incredible, diverse group of people. I even became known as the “glue that holds our dysfunctional family together”, as I was often the planner of events, an unofficial social chair if you will. Words cannot express my absolute love for every single individual in that group of friends. We came to call ourselves the No Judgement Circle (or the NJC). This was our mantra: to live and to love, and never to judge each other. It was a beautiful school year, but then the majority of us went on our own ways. I, of course went to Benin, three others eventually also went into Peace Corps, just in different countries, some returned to their own countries (Japan, South Korea, Mexico, etc), others studied abroad in various places before returning to America and getting cool jobs/internships. But ultimately, we haven’t all been together for 2.5 years. So our friend getting married in New Mexico was our chance, at least for some of us, to have a monumental reunion. For the sake of our cool jobs, I am going to use different names in the following story.

It worked out that three other girls were able to fly in a little early. I drove to the Albuquerque airport, and first picked up Casey. There was a little miscommunication, and I think I almost got a ticket from/possibly arrested by a transportation security person, but finally we were together. We drove up to the cell phone waiting area, because there was only 30 minutes before the next person would arrive. We caught up on life, our own Peace Corps experiences, and our return home. Next I picked up Leigh, and then again returned to the cell phone waiting lot. Chatting again, 45 minutes later, we picked up Kelly and then headed off to our hotel. At this point it was almost midnight, but we were in no mood to sleep. So, instead we pulled out the stash of alcohol I already had. I had a plain bottle of rum. But I was most excited about FIREFLY APPLE PIE MOONSHINE. Just read that one again. Now, I love Firefly. It is actually a brewery close to my college town of Charleston, South Carolina. They are the original makers of Sweet Tea Vodka, which is basically the best thing ever. And before, Casey would bring homemade Apple Pie Moonshine back from her home, and share it with the NJC. So a week before, when I found this Firefly Apple Pie, I became ecstatic, and purchased it right away. I only opened it once I was reunited with my NJC friends.

We spent the next few hours talking and drinking. We marveled over how in-step we seemed to be. It was as though those 2.5 years never happened. We were always meant for each other, we knew it!

Around 3 in the morning we decided to call another friend, Lacy, who would have already woken up in her Peace Corp country. The phone rang and rang, until a confused voice answered “Hello?” (she didn’t have my number), and four of us, in drunken unison, shouted, “LACY!!!!!!!!” There was a click, and nothing more. Kelly was slightly worried about the hotel kicking us out for being loud, but it was never a problem. Later Lacy informed us that she happened to be in a meeting, one where—rare as this might be in Peace Corps—it wasn’t actually appropriate to answer cell calls. But the phone was just ringing and ringing until she finally told her colleagues that she had to answer it. Her name blared out from the cell phone into the room, and her service promptly dropped, leaving everyone staring at her in confusion as she explained she had no idea who that was.

The next day we headed up to Santa Fe. We had a pleasant picnic in the park, and then headed around to see the cool sites of the city. We went to the Georgia O’Keefe (the artist) museum. It was only appropriate, seeing as the wedding would be held at Ghost Ranch, Georgia O’Keefe’s former home. There were a few videos and paintings, many of the New Mexico landscapes, and others of flowers that looked suspiciously like vaginas.

Santa Fe


After more city-exploring, we headed over to our Couchsurfing-host’s house. She was a pharmacist and snowboarder recently moved to Santa Fe. I made dinner for everyone, and we sat around to chat before heading out for the evening. She took us to one bar, which had a basement area with low ceilings and a semi-rude bartender who only accepted cash, but made me a really delicious drink. By the end of the night, we ended up at this club, which our host had never been to before. Since it was a Wednesday night, it was pretty much empty, but that didn’t stop us from dancing exuberantly. In fact, by the end of the night some manager had come to request that we pretty please come back on the weekend, seeing as how we would definitely make it fun. He even, at Leigh’s request, showed us a room that was currently being painted as another dance area. We were sad to inform him that, in fact, we were leaving Santa Fe the next day.

Out with the other NJC girls


We headed to Taos, New Mexico. We had a few things we wanted to see: the Puebla, Earthships, Hot Springs, Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, and the town center. We didn’t get to see everything, unfortunately due to various mishaps.

High Road to Taos

High Road to Taos
Notice how much the Vegetation has changed with the elevation!


The main mishap was following Google maps, which for the first time in my life let me down. The way that it told me to go led us to a dip that was quite impassible. By the time we got turned around, it was getting late, so we decided to leave the hot springs for the next day, and go instead to the bridge. The Rio Grande Gorge bridge proclaims to be the second highest bridge in the US Highway system. (The internet doesn’t always confirm this). The actual pedestals on which the bridge is placed aren’t terribly far down, place conveniently on a ledge. But the actual bottom is so far away, it makes elk look like pebbles at the bottom. And while being enraptured by the beauty of the canyon, and the terror of the drop, the most intriguing this was actually a “STOP” sign that someone managed to place—perfectly upright—halfway down an embankment that looked quite impassable.

Looking down from the Bridge
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge



The next day we got up and went to the Puebla. The Taos Puebla is the oldest continually-inhabited Native American dwelling in North America. It was really cool to see! Families hold onto their property, but often have houses elsewhere. They come to the Puebla predominantly during the summer for cultural and agricultural activities. There are some who live in the Puebla year-round, involved in tourism, or often elders who are cared for by the community at large. Our guide was a very nice environmental student, who told us about the history of the Puebla and talked about his dreams of being able to give back to his community in the future, specifically with the knowledge gained by his degree.

The Puebla


By the time we finished there, however, it was too late to go to the hot springs or see the earthships. We were disappointed, but pleased that we chose the Puebla out of all the options.

We headed off to Abiquiu, where the wedding would be. Along the way we picked up another member, Ramon, who had just flown in. We didn’t have a specific address, but Casey and I’s plan was just to put in a random street, and then follow the signs once we got there. This, by the way, was a terrible plan. We pull up into this area that is I believe the town center of Abiquiu, but is very, very tiny. There are no signs for Ghost Ranch. Kelly pulls up in her car beside us.

“So…that’s as far as the GPS goes,” says Casey.

Kelly gives us her no-nonsense look, and somehow manages to pull something up on her phone (Casey and I didn’t have service). She takes off, now with us following her.

Finally, we arrive at Ghost Ranch. Checking in, we are delighted to discover that our lodging assignments allow our NJC group to essentially have our own little house. There were two sleeping rooms, with a living room in the middle. It was perfect!

The three other boys were still on their way at this point. It was actually funny, because two of them (Florencio and Dick) knew each other, but did not know the third one (Khalif) (Florencio and Dick had graduated the semester before Khalif arrived). We were worried about them meeting, but Khalif later said, that it just immediately clicked, like they had known each other all along.

Of course this was a night to party, and we enjoyed some more rum and the rest of my Firefly Apple Pie. Some girls that had done a Fulbright with the bride, Cat, came by, asking for help opening their wine bottles. The corkscrew just would move the cork. Casey pulled them out in one deft move. At one point, Ramon, Casey, and Leigh were stargazing, and then we decided to go on a drunken mini-hike, which, in case you were wondering, was a terrible idea. Luckily no one got hurt, but later we scolded ourselves for our ridiculousness. Finally, the rest of the boys arrived late at night, and we engaged in more revelry, before heading to bed.

The following morning, we got up for breakfast, and then decided to go on a hike. As we get to the start of the path, there is a gate. “Maybe this isn’t the way,” someone suggests, so we try another way, which doesn’t work. We walk back to the gate, stare at it, and discuss if we think it’s possible to go under/over it. Finally someone simply reaches out and pushes; it opens. “Come on everyone. We ALL have masters degrees…”

The hike wasn’t terribly strenuous, but we were dealing with somewhat high altitudes. We had to stop occasionally along the 45-ish minute hike, but we did make it to the top. The view was absolutely incredible. Some people climbed out towards the edge for the thrill and a better view. After a while, we decided to let the creative juices flow as we absorbed the nature around us. We wanted to write Cat a wedding card, and we wanted it to be in true, hilarious NJC form. So we decided to do an activity that Leigh often does with her ESL students: the first person writes one line, then passes it to the second person. The second person writes the second line, but then folds down the first line before passing it on to the third person, and so on. This way, only the immediately preceding line could be seen by the author. It turned out really well, and we were very proud of ourselves; not only to have undertaken this hike, but also to have created this fun- and love-filled letter.

This is a lot what I love about us. We might party hard at times, but we also always get our acts together, and take care of what we need to. We are all laid back; we had absolutely no drama over this weekend. We all did pretty well in grad school while we were there. We get up and hike; some of us just spent a few days seeing the culture and beauty of New Mexico. We all have (or are looking for in Casey and I’s case of recently returning from the Peace Corps: are looking for) jobs that will (hopefully) allow us to make a difference in the world. Who said saving the world can’t involve plenty of fun?

The wedding was very beautiful. It was set up on a little hill that looked out over all of Ghost Ranch. In the distance, we could see a mountain that Georgia O’Keefe had painted, I believe multiple times. The officiate was a long-time friend of Cat’s family, and he seemed to have pretty thoroughly vetted the groom as well. He gave a long, but humorous speech filled with fabulous anecdotes about both parties, including one where the groom gave Cat the Heimlich maneuver in the middle of a restaurant.

A classy picture in the spot where Cat got married


Afterwards was, of course, the reception. We took some time preceding it to return to our house, and grab our wedding gift, which was a basket filled with each of our signature booze choices (I, for example, gave Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka, a company I believe now owes me some sort of money for mentioning them so many times in this blog). The food at the reception was really fabulous (fajitas), and after all the toasts, we were told there were two areas; one for more modern music and dancing, and the other for a more relaxing/chatting atmosphere. So, of course, we headed over to the dancing area, where we immediately started requesting—err demanding—songs and boogieing the night away.

This basically explains the night

Me with the Bride


Cat told us the next day that we received praise from another wedding guest for just making the atmosphere so “relaxed” and getting people into dancing. I also hope they enjoyed watching when I convinced everyone—for no reason at all—to run around in a dancing circle surrounding Cat while we all clapped. It was quite fun. Along with the other wedding guests we managed to drink the wedding out of booze, and Cat informed us the next day that there was a moment when people on the dance floor were passing around a bottle of what they thought was champagne, but was actually grape juice, or “sparkling” cider. I decided that it was a really great idea to actually run all the way back to our “house” and grab the rest of the drinks, along with mixers, and bring them back for everyone. It was a really, really fun night. We all made it back to the house eventually, along with some new friends that we made, and just sat around outside for a while before heading to bed. What a successful weekend!

The next day, of course, brought the goodbyes. They happened one-by-one as flights left or people drove off. Finally Ramon, Casey, and I began the drive back to Stillwater. I was really grateful that Ramon actually knows how to drive a manual transmission, so for the first time on this trip, I was able to be a passenger! That was very nice. We made it into Stillwater late, since we had lingered so long, trying hard to not actually leave our friends.

The Journey Home

Monday, October 27th – Thursday, October 30th

Stillwater, OK


We stayed with another NJC member, Marla, who is still in Stillwater. She is doing a PhD with something that apparently involves suspending viruses, whatever that means. The point is, she is super-smart, and we always admire her. She was planning on coming to the wedding, but last-minute another person in her lab had a family emergency, and they were all preparing for a big presentation, so she had to stay. I was happy that we got to pass through Stillwater and see her, however!

Monday, we got up and lounged around, until another NJC member, Carl, who lives in Tulsa, arrived. We went to a little Mexican restaurant, and started our day off with chips, queso, and margaritas. I met up with another friend while the rest of the party went to good ole’ Stonewall, our favorite bar in Stillwater. A few hours later, I met up with Ramon, Casey, and Carl. They were enjoying another round. Eventually we called Donna, who is the advisor for our program. Despite being sick with food poisoning, Donna hauled herself over to Stonewall. She informed us that there has been no group of students quite like us, and brought us gifts, such as pens, highlighters, and usb-drives-on-cards. She sat and chatted with us for a while, and we informed her how much we appreciated her. She really is great. She just makes things happen, such as getting all of us signed up for the appropriate classes, even when we’re spread out all over the world, and don’t really know what we’re doing.

At Stonewall, with our Advisor


The next day I had a meeting with the advisor for my creative component (basically a thesis, but less stringent). I have the survey that I did in Benin, but I actually need to work on getting it entered into a statistics software, analyzing it, plus reading up on my topic. Ahh…time is just slipping away! I think we had a good meeting though.

Casey and I then decided to make dinner for our wonderful host, Marla. It was nothing terribly hard, just some pizza and garlic bread. But it was yummy! I have missed having basically any food I want just a short drive away. Yay, America! We just sat around and talked that night, nothing too crazy.

Wednesday Casey and I decided to take a walk around Boomer Lake. It was a really nice day, and walking made us feel like we were actually accomplishing something. Then we went to Tulsa that night to hang out with Ramon and Carl. Once again, we had excellent Mexican food out. Then we just came back to Ramon’s home for a nice evening hanging out. Plus, we got to see the girlfriends of the two boys, which was nice. They are both really, really cool women, as far as I can tell.

Thursday was the day we had been looking forward to. Thursday nights were always the best nights during grad school: Techno-Beatdown at Stonewall. Basically just techno music blaring, people dancing however they want, even on tables, and fun all around. We met Marla and some of her other friends there. Casey and I decided to buy a round for everyone, which was easy, because the special only costs $2.50 (an outrageous 50-cent increase from when we were here two years ago). As we were heading inside, we heard one of Marla’s friends say, “You’re friends seem cool!” Later, when another friend mentioned that we were really fun, Marla replied, “You have no idea!” Another successful night of dancing.

 Friday, October 31st – Sunday, November 2nd

Stillwater à Kansas City à Indianapolis à Home


At last it was time to say goodbye to Stillwater. Now I had three days of driving ahead of me, and not exactly the fun kind. Casey and I drove up to her home in Kansas City. I got to see her mom again and meet the cat she brought back from her Peace Corps country. It was very hard to say the final NJC goodbye, and head out the next day.

EVEN WORSE there was frost on my car! I was so sad. I’ve been living in West Africa, then I was in hot Arizona. Colorado might have been a little cold, but it was at least sunny all the time. New Mexico was slightly chilly. But Frost? FROST! Ugh. I’m not looking forward to snow at all!

Saturday night, I stayed with a fellow Peace Corps volunteer. She was kind enough to offer her home up, and her parents invited me to a dinner with their friends. The meal was so, so, so good, and the company was fun. Katie, the fellow PCV, and I completed a very thorough Third Goal Activity (for those of you who don’t know, Peace Corps has 3 official goals; and the third one is to share our host country’s culture with Americans). We talked a lot about our experiences, both how they were the same in some instances, and very different, since Katie lived in the South, and I was in the North. We also debated heatedly with one gentleman about the proper way to go about development, and the West’s continued role in under-developing Africa. Though we disagreed, the debate was nice. Eventually the other guests stopped us, but at the end of the night, the hosts told me they were glad to have someone over that could hold their own against this particular friend of theirs.

Finally, Sunday, I completed my journey. In total, it was only the third day of driving all by myself this entire trip! It was a long, tiring day, but I blared my music and sang to myself for hours, so it worked out well. I arrived at my Grandmother’s to have my Stepdad, Bob’s bday dinner. Then, finally, I made it home to a very lonely cat, who was very ecstatic to see me back.

So in conclusion: 31 days, 7,643 miles, 20 states, a thousand of pictures, tons of memories. What a great way to start life back in America! Now back to the business of finding a way to put money in that bank account, instead of just taking it out…

THE FUTURE



I expect in the next few months to only be doing boring things like work, which no one needs/want to read about. But stay tuned at the end of January, I will be recounting my two-week adventure in South Africa!

Friday, September 5, 2014

Last Post From Benin

Thoughts on America


When the news from Ferguson first broke, I remember reading multiple pieces that at some point mentioned something along the lines, "the police version doesn't make SENSE. What black kid would ever, in any frame of mind, attempt to grab an officer's gun?" And now that there's a story saying there may be witnesses saying that's what happened, others are saying, "yeah the first witness's stories didn't make SENSE. Why would an officer ever just shoot someone for no reason?"

And THIS, more than anything is the issue. The divide which means that people in the US inhabit very different daily realities. Our experiences and knowledge shape us to have entirely different perceptions of reality.

Here in Benin, a local friend asked me if after living here I had come to the conclusion that Beninese and Americans were the same or different. I said we are ultimately the same. We all are born, we live, we die. In the mean time we eat, we sleep, we drink, we fuck, we laugh, we cry, we love, we get our hearts broken. We want to do our best and sometimes we fail. Sometimes we exceed our own expectations and the expectations of others. We want to do what’s right for our kids. We want to be happy. We do bad things and we do good things. We are all human.

So that is my conclusion, after living all over the world. People are fundamentally the same. But the difference is the vastly divergent realities we live. People are rich or poor, face oppression or are the oppressors. They live in a war zone or a peaceful neighborhood. They face daily discrimination or benefit from privilege.

And that is what is important to remember. In America, white people tend to move away from dangerous areas; areas were poor blacks are forced to remain. Most white people don’t have black friends (http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/wonkblog/wp/2014/08/25/three-quarters-of-whites-dont-have-any-non-white-friends/). This means they don’t experience what black people do, which leads many whites to disregard black experience. This is the same way that women face constant harassment, but men as very rare victims of harassment, dismiss as an overreaction, or an inept read of human behavior.

But ultimately black people are not fundamentally different from white people; but their environment often is. So white people especially, being in a position of privilege, really need to work to understand the harsh realities that are often faced by minorities and poor people in America. We need to be able to empathize and try to understand and work towards a better tomorrow.

Police are increasingly militarized. We give them equipment that is left over from the military. They are literally ready to fight a war. But seeing as we don’t have actual terrorists wandering around our streets a lot of the time, the police need an enemy.

And that enemy is black people.

Blacks and other minorities are constantly harassed by police and discriminated against. They use and sell drugs as the same rate as whites, but face my higher incarcerations rates. Moving forward as a nation, we need to get rid of a culture that sees blacks as inferior, that is surprised when blacks are angry. We need to move towards understanding and action. Towards a more fair justice system and a less racialized view of crime in America. We all have dreams. Let’s make sure every person has the chance to reach for the stars without being gunned down in the street.

Last of Benin


So this entry is about my last month in Benin. I can’t believe the end is already here! As I am writing this, I am sitting in the Cotonou workstation. I’ve filled out all the necessary paperwork, and now I am no longer a PC Volunteer, but, a “RETURNED Peace Corps Volunteer”. Though the actual returning won’t happen until Monday—thanks to a much cheaper flight.

In other news, I have already bought a ticket back to Africa, and I haven’t even left the continent yet. In January, I will be visiting the infamous Ryan Brown, featured previously on this blog, and author of “A Native of Nowhere: The Life of Nat Nakasa”


So, anyway…I returned to village in time for August 1st, which in addition to being my Mother’s birthday, is also Benin’s Independence Day. Last year the main celebrations were in a village quite far away from Kerou center, so Maria and I did not actually make it to them. We only went to the mayor’s house afterwards, where we were served food and booze, and then forced to dance with some people we knew from various gardening groups. Okay—yes I said forced as though we just didn’t awkwardly throw ourselves into the dancing fray.

This year, however, the main event was hosted in Kerou-center. So I showed up in time to watch a parade. Basically, it was just a bunch of different organizations marched down the street with a sign, and ended by presenting themselves to the mayor. Basically exactly like a parade in America. I knew all of the artisan associations, obviously, then there was the gardening groups, a Fulani group, and a group of traditional dancers.

One of the Artisan Associations

The Gardening Groups

Beekeeping Association


At the end, however, is the zemidjan association. They load up on their motorcycles as though they are in some motorized version of the wild west horse shows. It was quite terrifying, but luckily no one go hurt, and they weren’t going that fast anyway.




The last part of the parade was apparently a joke that went like this:

First, the police turn on their sirens and accelerate until they are right in front of where the mayor is sitting. They hit the brakes and come to a screeching stop. Then they jump out, grab some guy from the audience, throw him on the ground, arrest him, and throw him in the back of the police truck. Then they zoom off in the direction (straight forward) to the police station, almost hitting the on-looking crowd in the process.

Next, the ambulance pulls up with the same sense of urgency, throws someone on the stretcher, shoves them in the ambulance, and then zooms off, and makes a left-hand turn to go to the hospital.

Finally, a car with “Hearse” written on it in French speeds to the same spot, throws a third member of the audience into the back, and then floors it (well, as much as a Beninese car can actually accelerate quickly), and makes a right turn, towards the cemetery. At this point everyone breaks into laughter, and the mechanic-friend next to me tries to explain the joke. I’m just like, “No I got it.” And I laugh, not so much at the joke, but just at what Beninese think is funny.

Afterwards I hung around with friends. Constant organized a potato-sack (well, here technically a corn-sack) race for children. It was madness, so I went and had drinks with Dennis, and saw some other artisans. Afterwards, I went and watched Constant and a bunch of other men play football (like real football, not that American nonsense where the ball rarely actually touches your foot). It was a very fun day.

Corn-sack race

Some cute girl who offered me this flower, but I just took a picture of her

Me with Waliou, the son recently born to the woman on the left.
She is a seamstress and member of Sutiikua
Waliou is apparently my "husband"

Me and Dennis
I dressed up in Green, Red, and Yellow, as the Beninese flag colors

football!

One of the artisans—a seamstress in the Savings and Loans group that I started—had a baby while I was gone. Sunday was the baptism, so that afternoon, all of the people from the Association got together and then we went to her house. We said hi, were served food, and then gave her the money from a collection of everyone. It was frustrating, however, as we were getting served the food, because as usual all of the men (and myself) got served first, and they all dug in right away. Meanwhile, I waited until even all the women had food as well, simply explaining, “Well, where I’m from, we wait until everyone is served.” Then men just shrugged and kept eating. Sigh. I guess its even progress that there are women involved in this group (the other group has none). But then one woman who showed up the most often was forced by her husband to stop coming. Because he saw her with all these men (you know, at the unreasonable hour of 8 in the morning) and wanted to know what she was doing, blah blah blah, and just got super jealous. Meanwhile, he’s going around banging plenty of girls (projection much?), but god forbid should she try to do something like SAVE MONEY around men that are not him. And then the men in the group complain about how the women are often late, as though it’s the female members’ fault that they live in a culture where they are required to tend the house—no exceptions—before even thinking of doing something else. So sometimes they can’t make it on time, sorry. Of course, being the feminist that I am, I have tried to point this out multiple times, but mostly the men just laugh and shake their heads.

Me, with the female members of Sutiikua

So, then Monday, I am wondering around town in the evening looking for dinner. When I get home, I see that I have received a text from Stalker-man. Apparently he saw me at one of the cafeterias, said something to me, but I didn’t even hear him. He says that when I “authorize” him, he will be happy. Then, without waiting for aforementioned authorization, he texts me again, saying he’s not sure if he’s in my heart and if I will actually call the police on him, like I’ve threatened to do. Which really begs the question: IF YOU’RE NOT EVEN SURE IF A GIRL LIKES YOU, AND SHE HAS THREATENED TO HAVE YOU ARRESTED, WHY DO YOU KEEP PURSUING HER????????

Anyway, I go over to my neighbor’s house (a guy that I trust), and tell him this guy is harassing me, and that I want to call the police. Our conversation goes something like this (obviously paraphrased, and I added color, but the gist is there):

Neighbor (Christophe): “WOAH, slow down, girl, it’s probably just a joke.”
Me: “It is NOT a joke. It’s not funny, I’ve asked him to stop and he won’t.”
Christophe: “But he’s just joking. This is what, like message three?”
Me: “NO! Look at all these messages he’s sent me!” (I scroll through the entire collection that I’ve kept)
Christophe: “Oh wow, that is a lot. But he’s probably just trying to see if one day you’ll like him.”
Me: “I have literally told him I would choose to burn in hell than ever be with him.”
Christophe: “That’s harsh.”
Me: “It’s how I feel. I hate him, and he won’t stop bothering me.”
Christophe: “He’s just joking”
Me: “IT’S NOT A JOKE! I should be allowed to talk to whom I want, when I want, and if I tell someone that I don’t want to talk to them or see them, they should leave me alone.”
Christophe, *bewildered*: “Things don’t work like that here.”
Me: “It doesn’t matter where we are…”

At this point I stop, realizing this conversation is going nowhere, I will not get any protection that I want, so I storm out of the house. Christophe follows me, and tries to explain away this guy’s behavior, while the rest of my neighbors look on and laugh at my crazy sentiments.

Christophe: “He just wants to see if you can like him.”
Me: “I’ve told him no.”
Christophe: “But here, women aren’t supposed to say ‘yes’ right away. You have to keep pursuing them.”
Me: “NO MEANS NO!”
Christophe: “But sometimes….”
Me: “NO MEANS NO!”
Christophe: “But here…”
Me: “NO MEANS NO!”
Christophe: “You can’t ever find a woman if you just accept and leave it when a woman says ‘no’ to you”
Me: “But that’s just society telling her that if she says ‘yes’ right away, it's inappropriate. Isn’t that just ridiculous and dumb? Like you have to play all these games. Wouldn’t it just be easier on everyone involved if you had a conference and decided that women can say yes before their will was entirely beaten down by men. You could walk up to a girl, ask if she wants sex, and she can say yes, and you can have sex, and not waste hardly any time. And if she says no, then you know she really means it, and then you just move on to the next girl. It’s so easy! And it’s better for you! And BONUS POINTS women never again have to be harassed by men they don’t want to ever deal with.”
Christophe: “But here…”
Me: “UUUUUUUUUUUUGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.”
Christophe: “Fine. FINE. If you feel so strongly about it, I will call this man and warn him that you’re crazy self is actually ready to call the police, so it would probably be best to not come around.”

So he takes the guy’s number and supposedly calls him. I’m sure they had a good laugh about crazy white girls, and Christophe was probably super sympathetic to this poor guys plight (he’s just a man in lurve…) Meanwhile, I locked myself in my house, and started crying just out of a mixture of fear, but mostly frustration. There’s just so little I can do in this situation, but everyone around me keeps telling me that I’m overreacting. But that doesn’t make the fear or the insecurity that I feel any less, and I personally know I’m not crazy. I don’t think this guy is violent, but he’s definitely messing with my mind, and ruining many of my days.

He was too scared to actually come by my house after my neighbor’s call, he still texts and calls. One of his messages asked, “What if you were the one in love with me, but I refused, what would you do then?” Umm, I would thank you for your forwardness in rejecting me (instead of dragging me along), and move on with my life?

The moral of the story is that I am really looking forward to getting on the plane, and sending one last message to this guy, basically saying that I’m leaving and thank goodness never have to hear from him, and that I hope he burns in hell, right before turning off my cell phone, so he can never contact me again.

Wednesday, Raili and Corneille, her boyfriend come up to my house. Raili is moving out of Kerou (since the mayor’s office clearly no longer wants to work with us). I am giving her some of my stuff, but also holding on to a few of the things I will use until I’m done. We hung out and packed, and I made lentil burgers for them both. Corneille called them “interesting”, though he insists that’s actually a good thing.

When I got back, I was finally able to talk to Dennis about starting the surveys I’ve been wanting to do. They are for my masters program. I got approval months ago, and had planned on starting it, but then got distracted by my other projects, and my prolonged stay in Cotonou. Before I left to take Luna to the vet, however, I talked to Dennis about it. He worked with the President of the Artisan Collective to collect a list of all of the names of the artisans in the different groups. So by the time I got back, that was (mostly) ready. Thursday we began, and essentially drove around all over Kerou, trying to find various people in their workshops and/or homes. We ended up getting about 30 surveys done in about a 10-hour period, which was terrible, considering I am planning on 250 surveys total. The next day, Friday, Dennis was at an event a few hours away, so I did some of the surveys on my own, including starting at Ben Club, and then wandering around on foot to the shops of the few artisans that I knew and who spoke French. I also ended up later sitting at the buvette, calling some of them and making them come to me. The President of the Collective called the President of the Mechanics. They are scheduled to have meetings Sunday mornings, except on market days. And, of course, the upcoming Sunday was Market Day. So I asked him to tell everyone that there was a meeting anyway, which he did.

So Saturday I managed to interview a bunch of Solders in a row, then Sunday many of the mechanics. Things went a lot faster than when I was chasing people around town. So Dennis and I coordinated with all the presidents, and set up various times for these meetings. In the end, I got about 200 surveys completed. It wasn’t perfect, and certainly in no way something that I could publish as an official study. The fact that a larger percentage of the more motivated groups were interviewed, and those  were mostly male groups. It’s the rainy season, so I couldn’t interview people who take this time to move out to their field in a surrounding village and live there a few months while they grow corn.

This survey was a really great thing for me. On one hand, I do wish I had done it earlier. I got to meet with so many artisans, even the ones that didn’t regularly go to (or have) meetings. I got to learn more about their lives and their businesses. Had I done this earlier, I would have been able to include questions like: “What would you want from a volunteer? A training on accounting? Literacy?” etc. I might have even been able to follow through on those. (Part of my guilt during this survey was, “So, do we get anything from this?” and my response was, “Well it will add to the general knowledge of the realities of artisans,” knowing full well this is never getting published. I guess it will add to my knowledge, and maybe change the way I address development issues I face.) I also learned a lot of Bariba, even if it was phrases like, “How old are you? Do you have a wife? How many goats do you own?”

Of course, it wouldn’t be practical to have done this earlier. I didn’t really have anyone I could rely on. Maybe Pierre, but he doesn’t really know the artisans as well. If I had done this just as I arrived, I would have gotten basically no help, or perhaps only from someone who would have helped me one day, and then had to get back to his real job. (I ended up paying Dennis a little bit for the gas, and some other money, because of course he was taking time away from actual work). But I didn’t really know who I could trust at this point. Now I know who is “serious” about helping me when they say they will, and what their various limitations are.

I guess it just goes to show that Peace Corps is indeed too short. I’m glad to be done and to be able to leave village. To leave behind the terrible situation at the mayor’s office, the rampant chauvinism, the constant harassment (from kids yelling ‘batoori’ to the grown men and women hissing at you to buy their things or talk to them), the pit latrine, and so on. But I think about having another year here, to keep up with the work, start new projects, etc. I could have done a more thorough survey, and even applied a little bit of what I know.

Although, at this point, I think I’m leaving at the best possible high note. I had a small party with volunteers in the area. I made tacos for everyone, we got fabulously smashed, and then went to this random bar. I don’t even like the bar that much, but it was open, and I tried to make the DJ play songs for me. We were the ONLY ones dancing and one of only three parties even there, but NO, he has to play his music. Whatever. Regardless, we all just danced with ourselves, and I even invited the barmaids, and twirled them around, because twirling is my favorite activity when I’m drunk. We went back to my place, passed out. I woke up the next morning, did some very hungover surveys, then took a very hungover taxi to Oussa, where we had a small going-away party for the volunteer there, Will. Then I said goodbye to Raili, as she was headed to Togo to visit her sister (who lives in Ghana now), and we might not see each other again. Raili said she teared up as the taxi drove away, which was something her boyfriend was not at all prepared to deal with (adults don’t really cry here, or at least never openly).

I also left on a really good note with my community (minus the mayor’s office). As I mentioned before, my Savings and Loans group finished out their first year. They’ve continued into their second and even begun with new members! Ben Club finally—FINALLY—got their books in order. The very last week, I was verifying everything, and we were about $40 off. I was worried, but then they were like, “No…that’s right…we, err…spent it. On something.” I sighed, knowing it was a present/party for me. I tried to teach people over these fast two years not to spend money on frivolous things. And I especially feel bad knowing that these people who have such little money in the first place are spending it on me, when I am doing just fine. But it does make me like my work has been appreciated, and in the end, I’m just glad the accounting is correct!

Before leaving, I went to a meeting that had been called among the artisans. This meeting was silly, but it did give a chance to realize how well I’ve gotten to know these people over the past two years. The meeting was all in Bariba, and per usual, no one wanted to take time out to translate for me. I got a few snippets, but the rest I put together by simply knowing the personalities of the artisans involved. Basically, there was an argument over the printing of diplomas for apprentices who have finished their service and passed the test. The secretary is supposed to print them. However, I know that he is lazy and very rarely actually follows through on things he is supposed to do. Presumably, finally fed up, and feeling all high-and-mighty, the President decides just to do things his own way, and prints them all. Then the secretary, feeling all butt-hurt that someone stepped in, then prints his copies. Now there is a huge debate, and everyone is yelling at each other and debating who was in the wrong, blah, blah, blah. I was frustrated that sometimes when I ask artisans to help me, often times they might a bit, but then suddenly have to get back to their very important artisan-work to make money. But then they spend THREE HOURS arguing over this nonsense. Quite honestly, however, I know that organizations in the US get caught up in even more ridiculous things. It just goes to show that in the end, we all get caught up in the same bs.

So anyway, I spend most of my remaining time in Kerou rushing around to get all of these surveys done. Finally, the day before I leave, I make it to #201, and call it quits. This is, of course, just in time for the party that the artisans are throwing for me. It was a low key party, where soft drinks and yam-fries are served.

The party table, from one end...

...and the other end


We talk a bit, some artisans make speeches thanking me for my work. Then they pulled me to the center of the floor, and give me gifts.

Gift from Ben Club, presented by Edouard and Mora

Awkwardly holding the dress

This is how the dress looks on me
This is the present from Sutiikua

Up-Close of the wrap skirt. This is actually the EXACT SAME thing I got my mom (to use as a blanket). Typical Benin, but it actually worked out great, because I was thinking as I was buying my mom one that I'd like on for myself as well.
Gifts from the Soudeurs

It's really beautiful leather, made in Kerou. And the bag is amazing!


I was really touched by all of this. The gifts they got me were really beautiful, and very unique to this area of the country. Although the clothing I obviously can’t wear in the United States, I already have plans to use them as blankets for my room. So that’s really nice. After I got the presents, I gave a speech where I got a little choked up, and everyone was happy.

The next day, I finished packing up my stuff. I had already sent most of it with the direct market-day taxi to the workstation in Nati, so I only had a suitcase for me, some stuff to drop off for Raili, and finally my cat.

Pierre is hanging out with me (also picking up various items I promised him that I am leaving behind). Finally, he agrees to help me transport everything to where the taxi will pick me up. As I sit down on the moto, Hubert roles up.

Now I have pretty much avoided speaking to Hubert for the past few months. I briefly ran into him a few days ago, and informed him that I was leaving. He was super offended that I didn’t tell him way in advance, but I simply told him that since he had made it clear he didn’t want to work with me, I didn’t think he cared. I think that offended him even more, but I didn’t care.

ADDITIONALLY, I heard from Dennis this incredible and frustrating tale regarding Hubert. So Hubert has been working with this woman, Salimatou. She was actually briefly my counterpart, and I think I even have a picture on this blog with her. She is employed by a NGO (Belgian? Dutch?) that is based in Djougou (a town an hour south of Natitingou). Her job is to work with Improved Cookstoves. She has worked with the solders, such as Dennis and others in order to increase their production, get them trainings, etc. She also works with making clay versions, which are cheaper, and target poorer families, since they are less expensive. If you recall, I actually bought one of these when I first arrived in Kerou, but it broke when I left it out in the rain.

So, anyway, very recently she and Hubert went to Parakou where THEY GOT MARRIED! To be clear, he has a wife and like 5 or 6 kids already. But he decides he wants to take a second wife, and put her up in the nicer house that he’s building, instead of moving his first wife and kids there, where they’d have electricity and running water, unlike their current set-up.

After this, Salimatou stops working with the solders, devoting all of her time to Hubert’s projects. So Dennis is frustrated, and actually informs the NGO in Djougou about what is going on. Basically, they are paying this woman, and she’s not doing her job. This gets back to Kerou, and Dennis gets called in by the MAYOR, who tells him that he needs to get over, and not call the NGO again, to just leave it.

So I heard this story, and I was simultaneously mad and satisfied at the same time. It’s a really terrible thing, and honestly it’s just another example of how Kerou CANNOT develop while this mayor is in power. It’s really depressing. Of course, as Peace Corps volunteer, I am required to stay out of anything political. And it made me really frustrated when Hubert, the Mayor and the Premiere Adjoint treated Raili, myself, and Pierre terribly, and there was exactly zero things I could do about it. But now I see that Hubert is a terrible person, and keeps acting on these terrible, selfish impulses, and everyone is starting to see. People dislike this mayor and her right-hand-man, Hubert more and more every day. And maybe she’ll give the right people the right gifts before election day, and she’ll stay in power, but one day that will run out.

It’s frustrating that I have to leave behind a great and needy community with no replacing volunteer, just because the political situation is messed up. I just pray in the near future there is a new political party in power, and good work can be done again.

…So anyway, Hubert pulls up and we have a few minutes of awkward interaction, him pretending to be all pissy that I didn’t tell him what I was doing with the key when a) he never asked, and b) I worked it out with the landlord.

I leave, and leave the keys with my neighbor, and tell her to take whatever she wants. I go to Sous Les Neems, where I have a last Bissap Juice / Whisky Combo drink, wait for Pierre to come back with my second load of stuff, and then we sit for a bit until the taxi finally arrives.

As I was leaving Kerou, I simultaneously felt so incredibly happy and so freaking sad. I never knew that it was possible to feel those emotions so intensely at the same time, but that’s what it was. I’ve had an amazing two years, with all the ups and downs. I’ve been told by people here that I have had a positive impact on them, and I hope that remains true. I am also very excited as to what my vaguely planned-out future holds.

Since leaving Kerou, it’s been a series of volunteer goodbyes, as I was in Natitingou for a few days, then I went to Djougou to see Raili, her sister, and her sister’s husband. When they left to go back to Ghana, Raili and I just sat around and chatted for a few hours, until we had to party ways—this time for good, at least Benin-wise.

In Cotonou, it’s been a bunch of paperwork, a long zem ride to the vet (Luna was NOT happy) to get a microchip, rabies booster, and an official certificate of good health. Most volunteers (from my year) have already left. Maria, of course, is still here with her fancy USAID job, there are some more that are staying a third year, and some that have stuck around for various reasons. I’ve said goodbye to the Peace Corps staff that have supported me, and now I have a final weekend with friends before my cat and I finally board an (Turkey, then) America-bound plane.

This will probably be my last entry from Benin. But don’t worry, the fun doesn’t stop here. I’m sure I’ll have a few reintegration tales/fails to share. Plus I’ll have my adventure in South Africa in January. After that, I’m planning on heading to the Dominican Republic in February.

I hope you all have enjoyed my writing for the past 2+ years. I just wanted to thank you all for the constant support you’ve shown me. It’s helped me through, and I’m so happy to have shared this wonderful time with you all.

Sunrise from my Front Door

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Reflections

Right now I am stuck in Natitingou. I am on my way back from COS medical, in which the doctors basically check up on me to make sure I have any and all issues dealt with before they release me into the states. I was worried about money, since If I don’t get it now, I have to come back once again to Natitingou. So I was delighted Friday night to receive a text saying that the money was deposited into my account. But, I arrive at the bank, and the doors are shut. I ask the guard, and he tells me it is Korite, or the end of Ramadan. “But that’s not until Monday,” I point out.

“Yes, Monday is a holiday. But the bank isn’t open today either.”

I inform the guard that I feel this is ridiculous (though he obviously had no part in the decision-making and can do even less about it), and walk away. I then decide just to go back to Kerou in these fancy new taxi they have, which is a daily ride, and much more comfortable than other taxis and especially zems. So I call up the taxi, to make a reservation. “Oh, I’m not traveling tomorrow,” he says. “It’s a holiday on Monday, so I just want to rest tomorrow (Sunday)” Sigh. I know, yes people should have breaks. But the bank already has the weekends off every week, unlike most people in Benin, and perhaps the taxi company should also have more than one driver doing a daily route? Just a thought.

Anyway, I wanted to take the time to reflect a little on my Peace Corps Service. Now that it is officially ending in about a month, I wanted to look back on my successes, failures, lessons learned, etc.
To start with successes: hands down, my biggest success was the creation of a Village Savings and Loans Association, and the creation of an extensive accounting system for them. I spent hours upon hours working on, modifying, improving, etc the spreadsheets. Originally hand-drawing line after line into a paper notebook, I realized this was a not sustainable practices; the artisans would never take the time to do this all themselves! So I created a printed version, where the groups can keep blank sheets to copy every year for their accounting book. I have updated this version multiple times as we’ve run into newer problems, and I’ve changed the sheets to make them clearer and more user-friendly. Most recently I created a spreadsheet where they can verify all the totals on a regular basis, and ultimately calculate the amount to be shared.

Credit is such an important part of the modern economy. No one can really grow and evolve without it. But on the other hand, it can have high interest rates and fees, which can be crippling to small-time farmers and entrepreneurs. This is why I love the VSLAs so much. Yes, the loans require fees, but at the end of the year, ideally each person gets this money back, provided they’ve also saved money at the same rate as other group members.

I’ve had quite a number of failures. The most disappointing one for me was the chicken-raising operation never getting off the ground. Even if they mayor’s office hadn’t come in and steam-rollered those plans (then pretended like they were back on board for a few days, and then never brought it up again), I’m just not sure it would have worked. It required a huge investment from local farmers, who don’t necessarily have that money. Even if they did hand over the cash as soon as they sold some of their cash crops, that might mean that their family goes hungry for a bit somewhere later down the line. I think, maybe if I had more time and more structural support, it would have been a huge, wonderful, project which allowed twenty individuals to increase their incomes dramatically as well as increase the protein available in the whole community.

I sometimes wonder if it might have been better never to have done the irrigation project. I had this magnificent plan where I quickly put out this irrigation project, turned in the completion report, and immediately submitted the chicken-raising grant. But the irrigation project was delayed. By me being stuck in Cotonou, by the government shutdown, by Hubert’s lack of cooperation, my own inadequacies, and so forth. And in the end, this project…well I’d say it’s not been an entire failure, but it got pretty darn close.

So what if I had just skipped all that, and already gotten the grant for the chicken-raising before the mayor’s office came in to stomp on my plans? What if, inspired by the appearance of actual funds, the group members manage to scrounge up their own contributions, and the project takes off? Who knows, maybe this project would have been amazing. Maybe it would have hit more snags than anything else, and failed more miserably than any other thing I tried (and an expensive failure at that!)

Perhaps it’s stupid to think about the “what-ifs”. I still am glad that I did the irrigation project on some levels. I think I made a huge mistake by designing it around the idea that it would hook up to a water tower. In retrospect, of course that was a terrible idea! No farmer even in the states would hook up to the town water supply. Everyone has their own wells. I just wasn’t thinking logically. In my mind, I guess it made sense because there was no other water supply available. There is no stream or lake nearby this new location, and the water line ran right through it! When I think of wells that could work with irrigation, I think of American-style wells, and the only ones here are the traditional hole-in-the-ground, pull-up-a-bucket kinds. I also had no one here tell me it was a bad idea, even my community partners who are supposed to be experts on agriculture. Everyone just did what occurred to me. I think it’s part of the culture, to never disagree with someone—especially someone giving you money—so Hubert made promises that he would totally make sure the mayor’s office had a deal with the women, etc. While at the same time, (looking back, I realize this) working with the mayor’s office to get a well in the exact same spot. I’m betting he even planned on hooking up the well to my irrigation system the whole time, using a gas-powered pump. But why couldn’t he had just said that from the beginning?

I know I was in a rush to get this project done. Not only because of the second Food Security project I wanted to do, but also because of the small window of time in which the ground is actually okay to dig and lay these systems. If I had just taken a second to breathe, maybe the well-idea would have been suggested. I would have realized that was a way better option than having to pay for town water. I probably would have had to make sure the mayor’s office (or another NGO) would contribute the well, because there was not enough left in the budget for a well also. But it could have gone so much smoother.

In conclusion COMMUNICATION. Sure, I can blame it on the culture here, that telling people “no” isn’t a thing. But also, I’m sure it has a lot to do with NGOs that come in and have certain goals, and specific technologies/practices they want to impose, and thus are not always willing to listen to local suggestions. So maybe at some point locals just learned to shut up and do whatever the people handing out the money said was the best based on their INFALLIBLE LOGIC. Maybe I shouldn’t have brushed aside so easily my doubts about the feasibility of hooking up to the water tower. Asked Hubert, or other partners more questions, looked for other possible solutions, etc.

At least I have plenty of lessons learned. I have the irrigation project, which I tried to throw haphazardly together, alongside my slow and plodding (but ultimately very successful) progress with my Savings and Loans Association. Then, of course, there is the School Improvement program. I have been way less involved in its implementation, but I think it is one of the better things I’ve done. It was entirely community-driven, organized mostly by a very motivated individual. It helps very rural, very poor children, and is sustainable (hypothetically).

The most important lessons I have learned is consistency and dedication. I have tried to throw together some projects, but had them broken up by my absences or lack of interpreter or simply the rain. Getting people motivated the first time is hard. The second, third, whatever times are even harder. I have found this when I tried to start a literacy or financial class, but would have to take a two week break. Getting people to come back after the two weeks was always difficult. Furthermore, it’s harder for people to remember when there is too much time in between. One small endeavor I undertook with Anna was accounting for illiterates. It might have worked out much better if I had been able to go to the groups every single week and teach them, but I wasn’t. I had Peace Corps trainings to go to, or the interpreter was only allowed to visit groups once a month.  On days that I was able to show up (with the interpreter begrudgingly supplied by the mayor’s office), many of the women weren’t there. It had been too long since the previous lesson, so they had forgotten, or maybe they weren’t even at the previous lesson. I wish I had more time, less illness, and more support. But don’t we all?


In the end, I’m proud of what I’ve done. There are opportunities that were missed for a plethora of reasons. But I’m hoping that my next step in life will lead me to make use of these lessons that I’ve learned and apply this to my future work in aiding developing communities.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Updates

At least now I have an excuse as to why I have not updated my blog. No computer, no writing. Maria, the godsend that she is, has lent me her iPad. For the most part, I find it pretty unhelpful, because it mostly revolves around needing internet. I guess it does help when I’m at a workstation, that I can browse the internet on something besides my phone. And of course, I didn’t discover that it has Pages (the Apple version of WORD), for a while. Which would have been helpful. Since my discovery, I have been using it to continue my writing endeavors, so that’s nice. Although the ultimate would have been having Numbers (Excel), but alas, that was never meant to be. I don’t have a charger for an iPad charger, only for an iPod. Apparently this means a huge difference in charging-speeds. So it takes hours and hours for the iPad to charge. Oh, and I can’t use it while its charging, because its temperamental. Life is hard.

Nevertheless, I suppose I have managed to get a lot accomplished in the last month. I was supposed to be organizing the workbook for the girls camp that Maria, Raili, Ron (volunteer in Gnemasson, 1.5 hours south), Will (volunteer in Oussa-Pehanco, 2 hours south), and Ally (volunteer 2 hours south and .5 hours east), and I are putting together. The workbook, of course, gets a lot harder with my lack of computer. I have to depend on Raili and Maria and there generous donations of computer time.

Maria got a job offer at USAID (GO MARIA!!!), so she returned to Kérou after organizing the completion of tshirts and organizing the purchase of mosquito nets. I offer to swap her my help in packing for use of her computer, which of course she accepts. So we spend a few days packing all of her stuff. I have this habit of waking up absurdly early nowadays, so I’d work in the morning until she woke up, and then we’d start on packing. After a bit, Maria would convince me that what we really needed to be doing was watching The Mindy Project (a hilarious series, I’d highly recommend). We might get back to packing after ten or so episodes. And so our days went.

One day, before a meeting with my artisans, I happened to stop to get an omlet-sandwich. As I’m minding my own business, a guy walks up to me, and insists on greeting me. I thought it might be someone I vaguely know, so I said hi and went back to my meal. He sits down beside me, and not without me even looking at him, he says to me, “It’s Matthew”.

My whole body freezes. It’s him. The guy who has been harassing me. Not looking back at him, I think back to our interaction a few seconds ago. He’s so ugly. I mean, getting uglier by the second as I think about how much stress he has caused me over the past year. I ignore him, and don’t respond. I finish my sandwich and tea. As I’m trying to pay, he says, “Where are you going today?” He doesn’t even make sure to have my attention. He just says it in the direction of my body. As if I’m not a thing to be engaged before talking to. I say nothing. I get up and ride away on my bike. I go in the opposite direction, then loop around on a back-road to Maria’s house. When I arrive, he’s sent me a message saying that he was sorry he was so shy at breakfast, but if I’m ready to “start” with him, he’s totally ready too. I don’t get it. I really don’t. Like I don’t know how to be any clearer that I am in no way interested. Although, honestly, meeting him allowed me to see how sad and pathetic he is. He’s a guy lacking confidence, or any real ability to relate to women. He’s a bumbling excuse for a human being. My hate is in no way lessened, but my fear is. [He left Kerou officially a few days later, and since that day, he has called me a few times and once sent me a text after my failure to answer, asking what was wrong. Umm. What’s wrong is that you’re still calling me. Although, I don’t understand why you’re insinuating that anything is different, because this is exactly how I’ve treated you from Day 1.]

Anyway, back at Maria’s house, I finished up trimming the workbook, and Raili finally made it back to town. We had to come up with songs to incorporate. “Allouette” was an obvious choice. And there’s a Beninese song that talks about working hard in school to the tune of “Frere Jacques”. Furthermore, I translated a song from Mar-Lu-Ridge (I’m Alive, Awake, Alert, Enthusiastic, to the tune of “If you’re happy and you know it”) into French. My favorite part was, however, translating a song from girl scout camp. It was a song that my sisters and I loved, a call and response that basically is about a girl seeing a cute boy sipping cider through a straw, wanting to learn this talent, ultimately sipping cider “lip to lip” and thus ending up with 49 kids. So Raili and I translated this into French, with a story about a cute boy eating sheep meat, a love story that involves skipping school and ultimately finding out the boy is cheating (in Beninese culture, we were unsure if having an absurd amount of kids would exactly be a thing looked down upon. Obviously 49 is an excessive number, but not AS excessive as it is in the States. And besides, people find cheating-plots hilarious here, so it fits). The moral of our story was to leave the boys and do school work. We were super-proud of this song.

So finally the book is ready to be printed. I leave Friday the 13th to head to Parakou. Here is the Business Club competition that I’ve been preparing my students for. I have two students, presenting two different plans. I’m kind of worried about it, because I’m not sure that they’re entirely prepared. However, they manage to pull off decent presentations (and I use my grandmother’s old trick of pulling on my ear when they started speaking too fast). The kids had a really good time, meeting other students from around the country, and got really excited about their ideas and business in general. On the way back I even talked to them about continuing a business club next year without me.

Me with my two students


While in Parakou, I print out the workbook, and then give it to a photo-copy store to organize into all 38 copies. I explain to the woman very thoroughly how I’d like everything to turn out. She seems to be really competant, and when I come back a few hours later, she has everything copied and bound into the books. Everything seems to be falling into place.

I journey back with my kids Sunday, and then spend the rest of the week doing all the last-minute prep for our camp. Maria has already left, but another volunteer, Nora, has agreed to help out our camp.

Our camp starts in true Beninese fashion. There is a taxi that is supposed to be coming from Pehanco (two hours south of us) to pick up all of the girls and volunteers in Kerou. This was organized through Beninese friend in Pehanco, but upon the chauffer realizing that he was talking to white girls (via the phone) he decides he’s up for some tricks. Raili calls him right as he’s supposed to be in route to Kerou, actually almost there. He says, “Actually the price isn’t good. So I’m not coming. Unless, of course, you double the fee.”

Raili calls me, and we debate it. We are enraged by this maneuver, especially that he didn’t even have the decency to call us to make sure we would be arriving on time. But, the price we had agreed to was actually less than we had budgeted. Our budget was the price of each individual to travel in a normal taxi, and renting out a whole taxi as one group is obviously less expensive. So ultimately we pay what we would have paid as a per-person deal, even though it irks us the way we were tricked out of the money. Oh well.

We arrive, and things are chaos due to miscommunication between the director of the school where we’re hosting the camp, and the teachers/students. After a while we finally figure things out, and the camp gets started.

It’s thirty girls (5 girls from 6 different schools). We also have various “Model women”, meaning women from the community who are good role models. Our original intention was to have women from various sectors. However, both of my artisan/business owner women fell through, as did the two women’s health physicians. So it ended up being all teachers. They were really invaluable. A lot of times with basic things, such as translating our “Americanized” French into “Beninese” French, or just clarifying ideas. They offered valuable insight as we talked about things from budgets to sexual health.

I was launched back into Mar-Lu-Ridge mode. We even did a few skits that were from MLR. I’m not sure if they exactly translated culturally. The girls laughed late. Or in places I wouldn’t think one should laugh. Or we’d get the punchline, and it would be funny, but the girls wouldn’t seem to realize that it was the punchline, as in they’d be, HAHA, that line was funny, instead of HAHAHA, that skit was hilarious. Oh well, they still laughed, at least a little bit.

We had lessons in various subject areas, such as study skills, critical thinking, environment, hygiene, business plans and budgeting (by yours truly), and sexual health, as well as other activities to break up the classroom monotony. I introduced more camp games; they loved “Fox and Squirrel” or as we called it “Lion and Antelope”, which is a modified “tag”. We did some team-building activities. These took a while to explain, and so much longer for the girls to understand. I guess there are just some things that I take for granted, especially having spent so many years at camp, and in church/school events with similar principles. Explaining them to someone who lives in a culture that has never been introduced to games for the sake of team-building, including high and low ropes courses, it was a hard bridge to cross. In the end it worked out, however, at least mostly. It might also help if I had the French vocabulary built around these activities, but I guess I should have prepared more?

The last night, we had planned a dance party for the girls. The location is a bar that happens to double as a brothel. (Yes, if we were in the States, our asses would have been sued/put in jail). But it was the most practical place. Because honestly, every single “Maison des Jeunes / Youth House” that is  staple of every village, and paid for by the mayor’s office, is so underutilized that they all get converted into bars anyway, and thus not so helpful for actual youth activities (which really don’t exist). There aren’t really any other locations where we could have held this party.

Additionally, we made arrangements with the bar owner in advance. He happens to love Ally and her friends (thanks to her birthday celebration). So weeks ago, the owner agreed that he would reserve the space for us from 8 until 10, and no one else (especially creeper men, who have no business looking at middle-school girls) would be allowed in. And we would purchase 36 soft drinks (one for each of the girls and Model Women, so he was supposed to have those ready for us.

We arrive, and everything is terrible. There are men sitting around, watching the world cup. Because sports are more important than anything, we’re told that the bar obviously can’t kick these men out!!! It’s the WORLD CUP. Which the bar owner apparently forgot about in agreeing to our proposal. Then we are told that actually they had a rush earlier, so there are no cold soft drinks. Ally and I are talking with a woman, who I believe is the owner’s wife. I exasperatedly mention that maybe we should get drinks from another nearby bar and bring them here. This, of course, is outrageous to her, as we would be using the dance space and electricity, etc, but not paying for anything. “But you don’t have anything TO buy,” I point out. She suggests giving the girls warm sodas, because for goodness sakes, they’re children, and they’re lucky to be getting sodas anyway. I refuse this notion. We end up parting ways, without resolving much. I go inside to talk to Raili (the girls are currently dancing on the floor, but still with the male world-cup-watchers present and no soft drinks). She is sitting at a table, looking both angry and upset. There are two guys that have taken over the table next to us, which we were told was for us. I approach them, and they—in the douchiest, high-horse way—inform me that they have rented this table. Yes. They paid for it. With money. THEY HAVE MONEY. WHICH THEY USED TO PAY FOR THIS TABLE. MONEY. DID YOU HEAR THAT? They have money. I try to explain that we were promised this table, but THEY HAVE MONEY. I turn away, frustrated. The boss’s wife comes up to Ally and I again, trying to work things out, and I point out the men sitting at the table we were promised. She immediately goes up to them, and shoes them away, to another, smaller table in the back of the bar. Barely containing my glee, I run up to Raili and yell over the music, “VICTORY NUMBER ONE!”

After that, everything got better. I don’t know if the game ended, or the bar kicked the men out, but all the world-cup watchers left. The table-stealing men soon followed suite. The owner’s wife found cans (as opposed to glass bottles) that were cold. They were more expensive, but at this point we didn’t really care. All the girls were thrilled. The owner’s wife then took up the post at the entrance of the club, keeping out ALL other people, especially men/boys. We had a fabulous time. We taught the girls the “Wobble” line dance, but otherwise mostly danced to West African music. Ten PM came way too soon, although I was definitely sweating so much that my hair was soaked. We marched the girls back to the school, where we were sleeping, and had them go to bed.

Overall, this was a really amazing experience for me. Obviously, I worked at a summer camp for three summers during college. I always loved it. It also always terrified me. Having to get up in front of children and sing songs, or act out silly skits. Lead them in activities. Terrifying. But somehow, it always was such a positive time for me, and as far as I know, good for the kids as well. I was once accused of “not being there for the kids”, and hey maybe I wasn’t as dedicated as the other so-called perfect counselors, but I did put in my best effort. I constantly fought the effort to hide in the background (I sometimes succumbed), and for the most part I did put aside my fears and dance merrily, dress crazily, smile and encourage the kids.

This time, however, I wasn’t on the Mountain. I always felt an energy at MLR that would take me weeks to lose when returning home. Maybe it was the atmosphere, the way everyone from the camp director to the newest counselor worked to exude this energy. Maybe it was all the joys of former campers and counselors that lingered on the mountain. But I was always so inspired, so moved, so let out of my shell when I was there. I was really wary in planning this camp. As in, “oh god, I’ll have to act out these skits, this time without an audience of American children, who were guaranteed to ‘get’ it.” I didn’t have other counselors thoroughly trained alongside me, who knew the songs and skits perfectly as well. Plus, I’d always had a director, a tried-and-true schedule that we used every year, program directors, and so on. Here, it was all on me and Raili. We made it work, and despite my paranoia, it turned out great. The girls seemed to love it, despite our flaw of not scheduling them 5 shower-times a day, which they seemed to require. I even found myself imagining towards the end, that I might create a summer camp in West Africa. Maybe in some beautiful location, bus girls (and boys) in from all over the country, and have a fabulous experience for all of them. Camp was such a staple of my summers growing up, and made such a huge, wonderful impact on me. I’d love for that to be part of the culture here, as well. I’ve even come up with plans to make the camp almost entirely sustainable. Basically after “earthship” models. These are made using old tires and mud as walls (which keep the temperature at a really steady level, eliminating the need for A/C and Heat). Plus they collect rain water, which is used in different levels, i.e. obviously drinking water is the fresh water. Then say cleaning (dishes and shower water). The water used in those is then transferred to your toilet, until finally that water is used, and disposed of into the earth. Energy-wise, of course, we’d have solar power. We’d use Smart Boards (basically powerpoint-like projections that you can write on like they’re a chalkboard) for lessons. But wouldn’t that be cool? A sustainable camp (maybe still using food from local farmers, as a way to support local business, and then maybe some paper to print things out that we wanted to girls to keep) for children in West Africa. Okay, there’s one of my many endeavors I want to undertake. How to complete this all in one lifetime…

For a some more narrative on the camp, and pictures, here is Raili’s blog:


Camp ends the completion of all of my official, specific projects. I have nothing detailed that needs to be completed before the end of Peace Corps (except for my school study).

However, the Tuesday after (June 24) marked the one-year anniversary of my Village Savings and Loans group that I started. We had a celebration the following Friday (despite my protests, because I didn’t want them to spend their money on a party, that’s not the point. But they ended up taking up a collection for the party amongst themselves, so whatever). The exciting part was distributing the money. Although they originally said they didn’t want to distribute individual savings, they did this year. This is due to a bunch of people not starting right away, or not keeping up with the savings program later, so there were a lot of gapes in the savings amounts. Now that the group is well-established, however, this will hopefully mean that the savings efforts will be stronger next year. So they are all starting at zero, but everyone is really excited to build the savings back up. I also showed them how to calculate the “profits” and distributed those according to their “savings” which also function as “shares” of the organization. I’m really proud of this group, and what we’ve been able to accomplish. I really hope they are able to keep going strong after I leave. As of now, some of the more dedicated members have started one other small “tontines” group, which is kind of like savings and loans, but it functions like a collection is taken every week, and distributed to one member on a rolling basis. I also met with a friend of Dennis. This is a guy that works with improved cookstoves in our region, and he and Dennis are talking of starting a Savings and Loans group exclusively for improved-cookstove producers, so that they have capital to buy supplies in larger quantities. I’m sending him all of the documents I’ve developed, plus improving my computer-version, so he can just do the accounting on his computer. Without my computer, this has proved a little difficult, but I made sure he knew that it might be delayed, and have been working at the workstation to fine-tune all of this. I really don’t know what the final outcome will be, but I really hope it does help some people.

The Savings and Loans Group at our celebration

 Meanwhile, working with Ben Club, the other Savings and Loans group, has been a regular pain. I struggled to get all of their accounts in order. Finally, right before I left for the business plan competition, I managed to have everything perfect. I come back three weeks later, and am going over the books with them. “So what you’re telling me,” I say, looking at the numbers, “is that you had 809,325 francs, and you gave away 820,000 francs in loans, and yet still had some left over??” Yes, that is exactly what they were saying. I repeated this a few times, until they understood that actually, this math was a problem.

Finally, the following week, we figured out that there was a reimbursement that hadn’t been recorded. And therein lies all of the problems of Ben Club. People just do things. They don’t write them down. Or if they do write them down, it’s on a scrap piece of paper that becomes part of a stack. This stack, however, doesn’t do math, nor does it automatically incorporate itself into the group finance statements. So I once again lectured them, trying to drill into their heads that they can do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING with money, unless it is written down in the group books. If they don’t know how to write it down there, then they can’t do it. Finally, with the mystery solved, I go through some more of the steps with the guy that they’ve put in charge of the accounting books. “Hey, do you think you could give me a lesson on all this accounting?” he asks.

At this point I almost explode. I want to shout, “WHAT HAVE I BEEN DOING FOR THE PAST YEAR??? I’ve been teaching you this for OVER A YEAR!” But, instead of saying that, I smile and set up a time where we can work together on this, making sure, he really, deeply understands all this.

Other than that, I finally don’t have much work. Which means I’ve been cleaning my house (that simply means transferring the mess from room to room in  rotating manner). I finally got rid of all the kittens, and pray daily that Luna is either already preggars, or now doesn’t get pregnant at all. I can’t bring her on the flight if she’s pregnant, so that’s an issue.

I’m now down in Cotonou, where I will see off Ally (she is actually a third-year in Benin, and is finally leaving now), celebrate July 4, have my COS medical appointment (just to make sure there aren’t any issues that need to be addressed before leaving the country), work on computer-things, and hang out with other volunteers. Only two more months until I am home! Crazy!