Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Cats That Don’t Chase Rats and Other Confusing Things

So, you should probably not read this first part anywhere outrageous laughter is not permitted. Just FYI.

So last night, I went to hang out with Maria after I finished making photocopies for my upcoming business club. We drank some wine, talked about life’s problems, put on a movie, and passed out super early like the old women that we are.

Around 430-ish in the morning, I begin to stir. “Oh thank god you’re up,” exclaims Maria. She explains that she has been up since two in the morning. She had gotten up to get some water, and was scared by a shadow she saw flit across the floor. She herself scurried back to bed, and was unable to sleep. She texted with her father in Puerto Rico, who was giving her moral support. She later admitted that she had been undertaking a series of attempts to wake me up—from bouncing the bed (which as it was already broken, it actually fell in a bit) to make various noises. I had to remind her that I am a heavy sleeper, and like I tell everyone, they could probably drive an ambulance into the room, and I would not wake up. It’s been this way since I was little.

But now I am awake to strategize with her. Unfortunately, the electricity was out in Kérou, meaning that we couldn’t turn on the lights. And as you know, everything is much worse in the dark. For me, my biggest fear regarding rodents is the chance of stepping on them or having them crawl over my foot. Clearly, being in the dark would only increase the chances of this happening.

So to give you more of a visual, Maria’s house is basically two rooms. When you walk in the front door, you are looking directly at the back door. To your right is her family room, then past that begins a hallway with a door to your to go into the bedroom. Through the back door is the private outdoor kitchen and shower So we are sitting on her bed, and hear the sounds of something bumbling around in her main room. With every crumpling of paper, of course, this creature got bigger in our minds. “Where is my cat?” demands Maria. He was lying peacefully on the bed. So I—who have no problems with disturbing animals, and in fact often make that my life goal—pick him up, shake him out of his slumber, and toss him through the doorway into the hallway. He gives himself a little shake, throws us this remorseful look. But then, suddenly, he too hears the disturbances of a rodent. His body tenses, and he jogs away. So Maria and I think to ourselves, “Yes! Caye (the cat) to the rescue!” But then we wait…and wait… There are sounds of movement of a tiny thing, plus we can hear Caye’s bell on his collar. But no final death moans from the invading creature. “Come on Caye! Kill it!” we yell.

There is a tiny squeak. Is that it? But both of us are too scared to go investigate. Then we hear the sounds of movement again… the invader is not finished.

At this point, a little black shadow runs by the bedroom door, down the hallway, towards the back door. Caye follows it leisurely. I only got a short glimpse, and out of direct range of our tiny flashlight. So, keeping my knees firmly planted on the bed, I lean my body out through the bedroom door, bracing myself on the wall. I point the flashlight back the hallway. From behind the half-open screen door, I see a little black nose peak out. Caye is sitting casually by, just staring at it like an inquisitive child. The rat starts running back from the door (towards me). I see Caye bat at it slightly—nothing lethal—before I hurl myself back onto the bed, out of proximity of the creature. It skittles by, and Caye, again follows it at a jog. “That thing is huge!” I exclaim. “It must be 5 or 6 inches long.” Then seeing the horrified look on Maria’s face, I tried to backtrack but it was too late.

“Why isn’t he killing it?” she asks about Caye. “I don’t even like cats. I got him for one reason and one reason only: to kill rodents for me. What good is he otherwise? I hate him.”

At this point, Caye, apparently over his curiosity for this invading rodent, pokes his head back in the bedroom door. Maria and I both yell, “NO!” at him, and point him back at the door. He shoots us a scared look and runs off, only to run back in and under the bed moments later.

Anyway, this routine continues for quite some time, with Maria and I trying to encourage the cat to get the rodent, and him wanting nothing to do with it. As the first hints of light begin to creep into the countryside, Maria gathers up every brave ounce in her, and runs to the front door to open it, hoping at the very least Caye will chase it out, or perhaps it will leave on its own accord. All that this accomplished however, was that Caye ran out the door, leaving us to our own devices. “It’s over! Don’t come back!” yells Maria at the retreating figure. She texts Pierre to see if he still wanted a cat. She has an available one she informs him.

At this point we’re torn… we can’t wait in the bed, because we might miss the rodent leaving, without any confirmation. So we kind of hover in the hallway. Maria then decides to go get one of her neighbors. She brings back this girl—still in pajamas. We are explaining the rat, and that it’s definitely in the family room, etc. The girl moves a few items, and sighs. “It probably left already,” she suggests. But Maria and I assure her the creature is still in the house. At this point, we are both still standing in the hallway, and I am closest to the bed. I don’t see the creature dart out from its hiding place, but Maria does. She screams, and heads to the bed, and me startled and terrified that the creature might be heading towards us, dive into the bed with Maria, partially tearing the mosquito net in the process. Most luckily for us, the neighbor did not actually see us. We start giggling at our ridiculousness. I venture out again, and see the rodent dart across the floor, but I miss its destination. The neighbor can’t find it, and clearly wants to go back her house. She keeps muttering things like, “It’s just a question of habit” and “You’ll get used to it.” Maria responds that she will never, ever get used to it, she hates mice, rats etc. At some point, Maria ends up outside, the rat behind the bookshelves, and the neighbor trying to scare it out. It runs towards me so I jump on the bed, and it runs into the bedroom. This is Maria’s breaking point. A rat has invaded her private space, and there is now nowhere safe in this world. I think at this point the neighbor first begins to understand that Maria’s distress isn’t just silly, but a real fear/hatred of rodents. So we both come to comfort Maria. Then the neighbor tells Maria that she should go to my house. Then at noon, when this neighbor is on break from school, she and her sister will come and search the whole house until the find and kill the rodent. Maria agrees to this, but insists on seeing the corpse, for absolute proof that her worries are over.

We stop at the neighbor’s house where there is the mom and some other kids. They are laughing at our problems. Most of the discussion focuses around Caye. They ask where he was. “He was in the house!” we say. “But he just refused to kill it!”

Neighbors: “Your cat is so spoiled! He doesn’t think he needs to kill mice because you give him fish all the time, as well as Batoori cat food [dry cat food]”
Maria: “He is never getting anything to eat ever again. In fact I don’t even want him any more. Do you want a cat? I’m going to call my friend to see if he wants one.”
Neighbors: “No, you must give Caye a second chance! Here’s what we’ll do. We happen to have mice in our kitchen. We will lock him in there with out food, and within a day he will start killing mice. It’s just like children. If you want them to do something, you have to train them! All you’ve done is just spoiled him. It’s no good.”
Me: “I give my cat dry food and fish, and she still chases lizards and things all the time!”
Neighbors: “Well, I guess in that case, Caye is just dumb. Yes, he is a dumb, dumb cat. Maybe you should get rid of him.”

So at this point we leave and trek across Kérou—Maria and I live at opposite ends—in the chilly morning. I still have time to make myself some coffee before going to my meeting. As we’re sitting there Luna sees a lizard that has unwisely climbed into my house and is on the inside part of my screen door. She immediately sprints, and jumps halfway up the screen door, catching the lizard in her mouth in one deft movement.

“What the hell?” Maria exclaims. “Why can’t my cat do that? No hesitation. None at all. I hate my cat.” Then we hear the crunching of the lizard’s body. So I pick Luna up (she grips the lizard in her mouth) and put her outside, so she can finish the lizard without me having to see/hear the graphic details.

“We’re switching cats,” Maria says.

“Absolutely not,” I reply. But then I coo to Luna, who has finished her lizard and back in the house, “Luna, want to go to Auntie Maria’s and kill a rat?” Luna just licks her lips.

So I had to leave for a meeting. Maria stays and catches up on all the sleep she missed last night. I come back bringing a coke, because I know Maria loves cokes, and always has one every morning. When I pull it out of my bag, she smiles and says, “I will not E.T. I will not!” (E.T. means Early Termination [of Service]).

Eventually, she goes back to her house, where she opens the door for her neighbors and this other kid (Abib) who has been friends with some former volunteers. Apparently, they search the house for rat, and upon finding it, Abib grabs an arrow (Maria had bought it along with a traditional bow), and stabs the creature, killing it. Maria’s neighbor—possibly for revenge for Maria getting her out of bed so early this morning—shows her the corpse and then tosses the body towards Maria, who promptly freaks out. She laughs, and then the incident is over. I’m sure to become a laughing legend among Maria’s neighbors, far after we’re gone. “Remember those white girls who were so scared of a little rat?”

The good news for Caye, however, was that Maria’s neighbors reported that it wasn’t his fault. The type of animal in the house was a black rat. Apparently, it gives off a smell that the cats don’t like; so that they won’t want to kill it. At first we weren’t sure if this was true, or just an attempt to save Caye. But I was recounting the story later to Constant, and he confirmed that this was true. He called it a “musare” but I can’t find a translation for that word anywhere. So Maria grudgingly forgave Caye, but still refused to by him fish on market day.


Amazing Friends, Amazing Adventures


Almost every single day, I am reminded of the absolutely wonderful people that I call my friends. The majority of them are random people who were luckily (or unluckily—you’ll have to ask their opinion too) stuck in some program or other that I did; studying abroad, masters, etc. And yes, there are some people that I don’t keep up with near as much as I should, but part of that is because we’re too busy gallivanting the world doing incredible things.

The most recent example is my friend, Ryan Brown, who studied abroad with me in Senegal. Most unfortunately, she went to Duke, however, as long as that fact is not mentioned; we get along pretty well (GO TERPS! …oops).  Anyway, she’s super, super smart, and internationally minded like myself. The year I spent in grad school, she actually spent in Johannesburg, South Africa after having earned a Fulbright Research Grant. She grew a research project she had been doing in undergrad on a journalist, Nat Nakasa, who lived under Apartheid in South Africa, and after leaving, but unable to return home, ultimately killed himself at a young age in New York. And now all that research is a published book! If you want to check it out, it’s called A NATIVE OF NOWHERE: THE LIFE OF NAT NAKASA will be available on Amazon…soon.  February?

Here is a book review, from a South African newspaper:




Additionally, Ryan is one of two girls (the other one, Allison, also studied with us in Senegal, and who ALSO received a Fulbright, but one to teach English in Vietnam—see? I have freaking amazing friends) who will be meeting up with me in Ghana in January, and then we have plans to tour Ghana/Togo/Benin. So look forward to tales of our upcoming adventures.

So more than that shameless plug for my friends book, I just wanted to share how blessed I feel. I have friends that are spread out all over the world, doing various projects, research, work, and incredible traveling and living. I even admire those who may not be doing something so specific (i.e. writing a book); but nonetheless fill my life with new and awesome ideas and stories. Sometimes they help to deflate my ego [i.e. in my masters program, when I got lower grades than my friends/classmates], though my family will probably assert this is a good thing! But in general, hearing about and sometimes sharing in my friends’ experiences simply serves to make my life more colorful. I mean, I can’t do everything! So it’s perfect to have my friends visit and/or live in Honduras, Vietnam, Turkey, Azerbaijan, Macedonia, Guatemala, Mexico, Japan, Korea, Canada, France, Spain, Cameroon, Ethiopia; bike across the United States; have an awesome career in New York city; work for the International Refugee Committee…oh my, the list can go on for ages. And I know I’ve left tons of people out, but don’t worry, I’m thinking about YOU too. And that’s to say nothing of my family: my mom who has managed to run her own business, despite her protests that she could never do any such thing and now wants to be a life coach in order to help other women find their way. My sister who studied in Paris—PARIS—and is now finishing up school while working long hours, something which I never, ever had to do. My other sister who went to Australia and studied abroad in Spain, and now wants to work at a resort in Colorado, and maybe Hawaii next!

All of these people help inspire me to be a better person. I’m not saying that I’m not doing great things—I have people write and tell me that they are in awe of what I’m doing here in Benin—but I just never want to slack on the awesome. There are definitely some people out there that don’t want to see others prosper, because they think as life as a zero-sum game, meaning that if others prosper then they themselves are losing. But I am fully aware that I can admire qualities and experiences of others without in any way diminishing my own.

That, however, doesn’t mean I’m satisfied with where I am. This past week I gave up drinking. “A whole week!” you say, sarcastically. But for me, at this moment, it’s huge. I’ve been living the past few months in a pool of alcohol, drowning my boredom away; drinking almost every day. Some days I wouldn’t feel like drinking, but then I realized there wasn’t really anything better to do, so…

However, I decided to change this, give up alcohol COMPLETELY for a little bit (although I didn’t specify a period of time) and to permanently give up drinking alone (with the exception of a healthy glass of red wine at dinner). AND I started working out. Last Saturday, I decided to run to one of my events. However, all that happened was that about one whole minute into it, I realized that I am terribly out of shape, and I remembered that I absolutely hate running when I know (or imagine) people are looking at me. And since I live in a place where people stare at me ALL THE TIME, no matter what I’m doing…yeah, it didn’t work out. So instead came back home after the event, and stuck with my home-workout video, “Insanity”. And I did that for six days in a row. Yesterday was my “break” day. It’s absolutely amazing the better sleep I get after working out!

I also have picked back up on studying Arabic again. I don’t really have any specific plans for the language…but it’s a good one to know. Plus I really like how Arabic works. The grammar is fun. And I’m continuing my Spanish studies, so I can attempt to get a Fulbright in the Dominican Republic. Or if not, just live in Puerto Rico or something.

Sunday, 20 October 2013


And don’t worry, I’m doing actual “work” for Benin too. My work with the Artisans goes on—every week “Ben Club” accounting is off. This week I managed to find where they had added “80,000” instead of “8,000”, which is kind of a big deal. But they still had 6,000F missing… why is it always missing with them? At least when my new Savings and Loans group was off, they were over. Then the treasurer was like, “Oh yeah, I think I put some of my personal money with it on accident…” so I gave him an old wallet of mine, to keep the Association’s money separate. A lot of my work with that, however, revolves around trying to create the by-laws and a system by which they will distribute the profits, etc. Usually, such organization work by—after a year or so—collect on ALL the loans, then giving everyone back their savings, along with the profits divided up by how much each person “saved” (the savings work as kind of “shares” of the association as well). However, this means that every year or year and a half, the organization starts over again at zero, and has to wait to build back up the money for loans. So my idea is to create a system where the money would stay in the savings pile. Then every year the PROFITS ALONE would be distributed. Then, after two years, and in each subsequent year, each member would have the OPTION to pull out ONE years worth of savings (knowing that it would diminish the amount of “shares” they have in the Association). This way, the money doesn’t stack up in perpetuity, but it does stack up, and always provides a base amount for the loans.

I think the most boring part of my job is going to the regular artisan meetings. They are definitely necessary; because it’s only through them that I have any way to disseminate information regarding activities for artisans. But for the most part, all that happens is that I sit around for an hour while people talk in Bariba. The Solders mostly have their shit together. Occasionally, they ask for my advice. And because it’s not what they want to hear, they promptly disregard it.

The mechanics sit around and talk about how some people don’t come to their meetings, and the ways in which they will force all the mechanics to come. I have told them—very bluntly—that of course people don’t come, because ALL YOU DO is sit around and complain about how people don’t come. No one wants to waste an hour or more of their week doing that. I certainly don’t! I only come here because I want to tell you about my literacy class, so please STOP. I encourage them to make their association more appealing…so that people will WANT to come. But telling them this accomplishes nothing, they just tell me literally, “we hear what you said,” and go back to speaking in Bariba about the apparently soulless people who have decided to skip these meetings. This morning one of these people was (I think, physically) dragged to a meeting, and he asserted that he was having personal problems with another member, and was thus avoiding the meetings. They asked my opinion and I responded, “well, you’re not required to be friends with every single person here, but you should maintain a professional relationship with everyone, and leave your personal problems BEHIND you, and away from the meeting.” There are lots of nods, then they spent the next 30 minutes discussing the issue he was having with the other member, and trying to regulate it. I considered so many various ways of escaping that meeting, notwithstanding intentionally inflicting physical injury on myself.

I am happy, however, that the Tailor/Seamstresses group has started up again. They were not holding regular meetings for a while. They are about half men / half women. It’s interesting, because their meeting immediately follows the Solders. So all of the solders have these big fancy motos that disappear at the end of their meeting, and the men and women walk up; the women mostly with babies strapped to their backs as well. I offered to get them an accounting book set up, and I will work on this Tuesday with the Secretary. Then I also invited everyone to join the second Savings and Loans Association. I had tried to recruit them earlier, but they weren’t holding their meetings, and the one tailor that I thought I could trust to help me (he was part of Ben Club, and formerly the president of this association) is apparently one of the biggest slackers ever. Ugh. But there is another person there who is also in Ben Club, who is I think the new Treasurer? President? He gave a speech to all the people there about how awesome Savings & Loans are, so I hope there will be some people that decide to come.

I also am hoping to restart the literacy classes. During the rainy season, they kept getting rained out, and people kept complaining about how they were tired from working in the fields that they couldn’t come, so we just left it. But now that the rainy season is over, I am hoping to start up again. Constant, who is the professor helping me, just became a director (kind of like a principle) of a school (congratulations to him). However, his school is kind of far away, so he stays overnight sometimes, meaning we will have fewer nights of classes. However, this is actually better for me, since I also hate going to these classes (it’s dark, okay, and my headlight for my bike is crummy). I am trying to work it out so there will be female students as well. The problem is that women are generally not allowed to leave the house after dark, (they might be having an affair, oh no! Plus men don’t feed themselves, and dishes don’t wash themselves, duh). So the 9PM time that is ideal for the men doesn’t work at all for the women. I originally mentioned this to a small group of men who regularly attended the classes last year, trying to see if we could adjust the times. The response was basically: “Wait…you mean…you want us to actually have class with women? At the same time? In the same classroom? But…I don’t think that’s allowed. Plus…well…” So instead, I think I’m just going to have to settle for different times, maybe having women’s classes Sunday and Wednesday afternoons. I’m not even sure if there will be any of the grown women seamstresses…their general response was that since they are mostly all married, their husbands probably wouldn’t approve, and besides, what’s the point? But they have many apprentices that maybe had to drop out of school who would be interested in going.

The handball tournament is going along. We had our first “sensitization” regarding girls in sports: how is it beneficial to girls and boys? The kids are really hesitant to participate, but Constant, being a teacher, has ways to help with that. Additionally, I’ve had to rethink the procedure. I had originally planned on the students “leading” the presentation/discussion. But I’m just not sure if that’s a thing here. So what Constant suggested was the week before go around to BOTH teams, have them write out their thoughts about a subject, then share them at the game. I think this might work out better.

I don’t know how to feel about the fact that Constant is doing most of the work. I’m not the charismatic leader at these games; but I also think that’s kind of the point. While Peace Corps might want me to say, “Oh, I organized blah blah blah and led a 20 minute discussion…” I think it’s much better to be kind of a motivational force and organizer, but mostly simply be there while the community (teachers, students, whoever) does the work. That way they could do it again when I’m gone. That’s not to say there isn’t any work on my end. I still organize the schedules, go to the games, help think of the question for prompts, etc. Plus I wrote the grant. But I’ve always enjoyed the behind-the-scenes role. So it’s perfect.

I’m also working on starting a business club. When I started planning it, I might have slightly panicked, realizing that I’ve never actually taken a business class. I’ve never had the example of someone else’s view on how business should be taught. I’ve never learned business theory or how to write a business plan. Oops. Furthermore, I’ve never written a lesson plan, or have any idea how long certain activities should take. When I worked at Mar-Lu-Ridge, we had all these essentially “lesson plans” aka games, and had over a week of training where we practice putting them together, etc. I guess if I had actually been a teacher in Peace Corps, I would have gotten that sort of training, but I’m not. Luckily Peace Corps provides us with tons of written resources, plus there is this really awesome things called the Internet…

I actually met the teacher that is working with me on this when I was at the bar (see, good things can come of my drinking as well!) He has a Master’s in Business, plus a few other certificates that I was unfamiliar with. Obviously, he’s more than qualified to teach this entire business club. So while there are some things that I might be able to organize and/or talk about confidently, I mostly want to keep the focus on the kids learning from experience, with lectures from him, and prompts from me. For the moment, though, even coming up with a schedule is hard. Should I do marketing or accounting first? Does a practical exercise fit here? I’m trying to integrate lectures and practical work with the culminating effort: a Business Plan. Last year, Peace Corps Benin held a Business Plan competition, and I’m hoping I’ll be able to send my own students this year.

Friday, 1 November 2013


So I’m currently sleeping in my hammock, as a few nights ago I was awoken multiple times by earwigs that decided to join me in bed. In my hammock, there are still bugs, but at least not earwigs. I hate those things. P.S. Cousin Ryan, can you bring your anti-pest to my house, and do some extermination? Thanks…

This past week or so has been filled with unfortunate happenings. However, they all seem to end up more or less okay. I guess it started when my bike seat fell off my bike, WHILE I was riding it. It’s been loose for a bit, and I had tried to tighten it. But then the screw that attaches the seat to the bike snapped in half. I wasn’t even aware that was possible. I had only just left my house, so after I stood in the middle of the road and laughed/cried for five minutes, I walked my bike back to my house. I called someone at the meeting I was going to so that he could come get me on his moto. I showed him my bike, and he offered to help. So later, I brought my bike to his shop [he is a Solder]. He suggested soldering the screw back together, but I told him that was dumb; it wouldn’t hold up. So instead he has the mechanic across the street from him bring over a bag full of various screws. It was really insane how many they had; all different sizes. So we sorted through until we found one that was the proper length and diameter. And Voila! I reattached my bike seat to my bike, my solder-friend tightened the screw, and all was good.

…until I was biking to Kongorou, a town that is about 8 km away. Now this story is partly my own stupidity. I had a tire blow out in town a few months ago. When I took it to the mechanic, he pointed out that the actual tire was in terrible condition, and that was causing the innertube to pop more easily. He remedied this by taking an old innertube and and putting it in as a protective layer. Apparently, though, he didn’t really attach it; just laid it in there. I had Peace Corps send me a new bike tire, but figured this would do in the short run. I brought the tire to Kerou, but had been too lazy to go through the ordeal of changing it. So as I’m biking TO Kongorou, my tire is looking slightly flat, and it’s even harder for me to bike than usual. I have someone put air in it while I’m there. On the bike ride back, there is a part in the actually comes ripped apart, and the innertube is pushing through like a black bubble trying to escape. My ride becomes bumpier as this bubble goes round and round. I begin cursing myself for being so lazy, and praying to any and every god just to make it. About 100 meters before Hubert’s house [he lives in a village two or so miles outside of Kerou center] there is this really loud POP that I think scared the bejeezus out of a passing moto. I sigh, get off, and walk in the hot midday sun to Hubert’s house. I leave my bike there, and then continue on to my house. Of course, I needed to meet with a school director regarding literacy classes; but it looks like this is not going to happen. When I reach the school, I find that he is not there, but fortunately he is in a meeting near my house. So I go to my house, grab the tire, a new inner tube, and my bike-repair supplies. Then with my tire draped around me like a sash, I go and meet the director briefly [I must have looked like a crazy person]. Then I trudge on, and finally make it back to Hubert’s house. He is not there, but a lot of his kids are. They immediately rush over, grab everything I’m carrying [like good Beninese children] and then set on helping fix my tire. I had to show them how to remove the wheel from the bike, but after that, they did pretty much everything, which was really nice of them. I thank them all profusely, then finally get on my now [hopefully] fully-functional bike, and head home. When I finally make it, I stand in front of my fan for a while, then pass out in my hammock to make up for all the sleep I didn’t get the previous night fighting off earwigs.

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the story of how I spend so much of my time being absolutely unproductive. [In addition to my culinary adventures]. There’s always something, and it always takes forever. I spent about three or more hours related to the two bike fiascos. Sigh. So now, I just need to remember to take better care of my bike. I am also having Peace Corps send me a new bike sack. My old one does not fit my bike. And this way, I will be able to carry a new inner-tube, tools, etc, in case something like this happens again.

In better news, things are moving a long. Not with any of my grants, which are still waiting on Peace Corps Washington to get its act together and roll out the new submission form. But the handball tournament is going, last week we talked about whether it is okay to start having sexual relations while still in school. This week we will talk about the same subject, just with the two other teams. The final of the tournament will fall on World AIDS Day, so there will be a lot of talk about sexual health and AIDS prevention, etc.

There were three women seamstresses who came to my Savings and Loans meeting. I am really excited about that. That brings the total number of women up to five, which is one quarter of the Association. Actually, pretty impressive. The actual association is struggling now. Apparently, these months are the “critical period” in Kérou. That means that no one has much money. They are waiting on the corn to be harvested (December), and then the cotton (January). At that point, everyone will be rolling in money, subsequently build all the houses, etc, they want, maybe buy a moto, then come next October/November/December, starve again. But since people don’t have much money, they can’t pay the artisans, so there isn’t much work or income. This means that the artisans don’t want to come to my meetings, because they can’t pay the weekly savings/fees. I am trying to spread the word that it’s fine if they can’t pay. For me it’s more important for people to come, talk about the Association, finish the By-laws, etc. It’s taken us an absurd amount of time!

The literacy classes have started up again, although only with a few people. This is normal, however. People don’t want to come initially, incase things don’t work out, and they waste their time. But once they hear that it’s going, more people will start showing up. I learned a few things from last year. I think we’re going to start collecting money (just a tiny bit). This will go towards paying for the measly electricity we use, as well as giving a little something to the professors involved. I set up a notebook to take attendance and record payments. I gave this to the artisan that is the most motivated, and comes to every single class. Constant, the professor, will help him write people’s names. I hope this leads to a more organized experience. I also want this to be able to continue without me, so I’m trying to figure out a system to set up.

Tuesday I went to Constant’s new school. This school has existed for two years, but this is the first year that the school has officially recognized it. Apparently here, the individual communities must provide land, and build a two-room building, etc, before the state will step in. The school is actually really far out into “la brousse”, or “the bush”. I had to go through many cornfields, a forest, and a small stream to get there. It is in the center of a Peul area called, “Tingbaou” This apparently means “rich earth”; as in the soil is better and produces more/better corn. The school is really under-equipped, so Constant and I are currently trying to organize a project to help out. The good news is that they already have a water pump nearby [actually given by Saudi Arabia], so planting a garden or something would be easy.

Constant and his students

 That’s pretty much it. My business club schedule is completed, and the teacher was quite satisfied with it. Now we just have to go talk to the director to get approval. Who of course is out of town. So a little bit of waiting with that…

I had a taco night with some local volunteers. It was really incredible. Maria was coming back from training, so she picked up Cilantro in Cotonou, then avocados and green peppers in Nati. We made corn tortilla chips, salsa, and guacamole from scratch. We used the meat grinder and taco seasoning from home to make the taco beef (or the seasoning and soy “cheese”—basically tofu—for the vegetarian). We had beans; plus I made “Queso Fresco”, which impressed everyone. Then Maria also brought tequila and an absurd amount of limes from Nati as well, so we had fresh margaritas all night. (well, as long as the tequila lasted). It was really awesome and fun. We are thinking of doing more get-togethers with different cultural themes. I wish I could say we included neighbors, but they are always so unimpressed with our concoctions. Maria once made tacos with Anna and Thomas, and her neighbor just tastes it and goes, “Oh. Interesting,” and walks away. I guess it’s weird to remember that even though Beninese food is so odd to us, that’s what people here eat, and they don’t have access to much else. They aren’t used to being adventurous. So we hoard our precious food for us Americans who will really appreciate it. It’s only one night. And we share things out neighbors like more, such as banana and mango cakes, etc.

Another thing I should mention is that Luna escaped shortly before I left for Cotonou, so I didn’t get a chance to put her back inside. I put my neighbors in charge, but they said she would come around and meow at my door, but as soon as they came over to open it for her, she ran away. When I came back, Luna and I had this glorious reunion (I was so worried about her). But now she is absolutely obsessed with going outside. She manages to jump my six-foot wall in back. She has completely shredded my window screens in her efforts to get out. I really hate when she goes out. I worry about her, plus I want to cuddle! The other issue is that Maria—whose cat goes in and out on its own—can open her back door. No one can see it open, etc. But for me, the door is taller than my back wall, so if I leave my door open, anyone passing by behind my house can tell. Also bats. Bats fly into my house whenever I forget to shut my door. So if she gets out, she’s out for the whole night. I want to try to keep her in mostly, but also have a way for her to come back in if she does escape. I’m working on that. In other news, she is most definitely preggars, so be expecting kitten pics. I’m really excited to have little baby kitties! It will be adorable!

Tuesday, 12 November 2013


My life has been very hectic lately. I always feel like I’m running around trying to finish everything. I am finding myself always having to complete preparations for my activities at the last minute. Not always due to procrastination, but due to the fact that I was preparing for other activities, and didn’t have time to get ahead. I’m working on it though, trying to move ahead.

I had my first Business Club meeting. I definitely need to make a lot of improvements. I started by giving the students a pre-quiz. My first questions were things like, “Why are your joining this club? What kind of projects do you like? Where do you see yourself in five years?” But then I had some questions to test their knowledge, just to see where they are at. They really struggled through this, mostly because students here are not taught to do critical thinking. If they didn’t have me lecture the answer once so they can regurgitate it, they don’t know what to do. Anyway, it was a dull way to start, and looking back I wish that I had maybe still asked for the dream statement stuff. Maybe brainstormed beforehand. Although, afterward I asked the students to introduce themselves and say why they joined the club. All of them said, “My name is _________ and I joined this Entrepreneurship Club because I like enterprise.” Sigh. For the test, though, maybe made the questions multiple choice or true/false, so they didn’t have to write so much. I also didn’t plan as much as I should have. I was going over the plan with the professor, and he’s like, “the pre-quiz and this other thing will take so much time, don’t plan to do another activity too.” So I didn’t. Then the second activity took all of five minutes, so I tried to pull some of the class out of thin air… it was a mess. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed it. I’ve always wanted to be a teacher, and I loved being there with the kids. I hope, however, that my performance didn’t scare them off. I will create a much better plan for next week.

I finally finished all of the By-Laws for my new Savings and Loans group. I will go over the document and edit it. Then I can print it out, get everyone to sign, we can have elections… and the club can really get going. It’s only taken 6 months… Actually, I’m glad that it’s taken so much time, it means that we have had time to really hash out their vision for the club. Today, we talked about sharing of the funds and taking out money, etc. I was worried about savings building up in perpetuity, but apparently that’s what they want. Their vision is to save up enough money, and put it in the CLCAM (the local bank). Then, once they have enough money so that every member can take out a loan of One Million Francs (that’s about $2,000) they will do that. Based on what the CLCAM has told me and the group’s current savings rates, I think this will take them four years. In the mean time, they will use their own money to take out smaller loans, and at this point they themselves will actually reap the benefits of the interest paid, etc. I’m really excited for this group. They mostly seem really motivated (with a few exceptions that I will actually attempt to expel before we officially sign the By-Laws, etc)

15:30 PM : I get a message from Peace Corps, saying that they worked out a deal with headquarters that I can turn in my grant with the old form, as long as a pinkie-swear to fill out the new format once it’s ready. If that ever actually happens. I’m jumping up and down for joy (seriously, it’s really hard to type this out). Irrigation, here I come.

For your enjoyment, here is a picture of some of my neighbor kids playing with legos that I bought in Cotonou. They love them! I know they’ve never seen legos before, and I always like the idea of children playing with constructive things, such as legos, which can teach patterns and construction. Also, there’s Luna just lying in the middle. It’s like she wants to get close and get attention. Then one picks her up and carries her around, and she remembers why she should have been trying to stay away.






Saturday, October 19, 2013

Adventures in Milk; Also Known As: Epic Failures in Culinary Pursuits

Mid-September through Mid-October


So I recall posting a while ago that I was absolutely delighted to find out that making my own cheese was actually quite simple. I love cheese. If I could eat one food for the rest of my (most likely very short, due to subsequent high cholesterol) life, it would be cheese. I just love, love, love it.

On one of my jaunts across the internet, I discovered that by simply adding vinegar to milk, one can make cheese. Basically vinegar—or even an acid like lime juice—separates the curds and whey (Hey! I know what curds and whey are now! Little Miss Muffet makes so much more sense!)  I haven’t really tried it over the past year, because my fridge had been terribly unreliable. Once I tried it with powdered milk. And it tasted like powdered milk. Ugh. And I don’t even buy the good kind. Plus, there was one time that I did buy real milk, and all that happened, was that it was really expensive, and gave me terrible intestinal problems.

Now, there are a lot of Peul (also called Fulbe, Pulaar, and Fulani) in Northern Benin. In fact they are spread out through a lot of West Africa; there are even Peul in Senegal (my host brother, Aziz, is Peul). They are so far spread out, because their traditional occupation has been—and still is—herding cattle. This means, of course that they must be migratory. So anyway, there are a lot of Peul villages around Kérou, and every day, women walk into town to sell the milk. It’s weird for me, because they sell “today’s milk” and “yesterday’s milk”. The milk from the previous few days, looks nice and curdled, but people just add it to their porridge-looking meal, and eat it right up. So I guess it’s safe? Safe-ish? When I bought the “today’s milk” originally, a long time ago, it was a non-market day, and I bought it at this area kind of close to my house. It cost me 60 cents for a half-liter (just over 2 cups), which Pierre said was really expensive. And I was disappointed, because that meant it was almost as expensive as boxed milk (pretty much like the gallon jugs we buy in the states, except this milk doesn’t have to be refrigerated until the box is opened). But at $1.50/liter (that’s $5.68/gallon), I decided it’s way out of my Peace Corps budget, for a regular basis.

So fast forward to a few weeks ago, when I finally went to the actual 4-day market. There is always a group of Fulani women selling the milk, and a girl there helped me explain what I wanted (the Fulani, living in their even more remote villages, speak even less French than the Bariba). I got my half-liter filled up for 40 cents, and that was overflowing! I was so excited. I hurried home and boiled the milk, then added the vinegar, and VOILA! Cheese! Not the creamy, American or Velveeta or Brie, but apparently like Indian Paneer cheese or “Queso Fresco”. However, I wasn’t entirely satisfied, because I kind of had this idea that the vinegar gave it this off-taste, although it’s entirely possible that I was imagining that. Furthermore, I had read in Mark Bittman’s “How to Cook Everything” (and no, that title is not an exaggeration. It’s an incredible book) that cheese would be best made with buttermilk.

So now I have a quest to find out how to get buttermilk. Jumping to my handy-dandy new smartphone, I find out that a good buttermilk substitution was milk and vinegar. WAY AHEAD OF YOU, but thanks. So fail.

But THEN, I stumbled across a website explaining how to make butter at home. BUTTER. And—here’s the best part—when you make butter, what it leaves behind is buttermilk. How perfect is that, RIGHT!?

Then I start thinking about how when I was young, my school would take us to Rose Hill Manor, a historical plantation in Frederick. They’d show us around, going, back in these times, people had to pop popcorn with fire… “What, how do you pop popcorn without a microwave?” I thought at the time. Now if I want popcorn, it’s over my gas stove. Then they’d show us sugar cubes, saying that back in the day, people had their sugar imported from Europe in cube form (yep, that’s what I get here in Benin! Sugar cubes by the box). Another thing was a big container where people would let the milk sit, and let all the cream rise to the top. Then they would skim the cream off, and throw everything else out, because apparently skim milk is infested with demons, or bad luck, or something. Then they would make butter with their fancy churn, and so on.

So I’ve basically just accepted that I’m living in Colonial America. I’m pretty sure my Uncle Ken said that on one of my blog posts almost a year ago, but I was like, “Pffft, that’s ridiculous. People have cell phones here. Cell phones didn’t exist in Colonial America. Check. Mate.” So I think for the first time ever, I will admit to my uncle that he was maybe a little bit right. I am living in Colonial America. With a smartphone. :) I mean, it’s way, way more complicated than that, especially from a development standpoint. Because it’s not the Benin is UN-developed, it’s that it’s been systematically UNDER-developed to the benefit of Western nations. So when I say I live in Colonial America, I don’t want you to get the impression that given a few hundred years, Benin will begin to look like Modern America. Development isn’t linear, and Benin is stunted in its development because of its historical and current (economic) relationship to the rest of the world. I think that’s really, really important to remember. But I guess in terms of living conditions, there is a lot that is the same, such as lack of indoor plumbing, a large focus on agriculture, farm animals everywhere, dirt roads, food so much more dependent on seasons… OH, and I remember reading in Felicity’s (the American Girl Doll from Colonial Times) book about her playing this game with a wooden hoop, where basically, you use a stick to push and guide the hoop as it rolls and you run along beside. And guess what? So many kids here do that!!! (except with more modern bike tires or something) It’s so bizarre.

[On a somewhat related note, I wrote to my grandmother, GW, about my intentions to make butter, and she wrote back that she actually remembered her mom skimming the cream from milk—delivered by the milkman—and making butter. So I guess this means my grandmother actually lived in colonial America too. She’s definitely aged well, considering.

(Hmm…delivery. I should get some economic development going, and teach Peuls about the beauty of home delivery. Everyone could have fresh milk at their door every morning…)]


It is interesting, though, to think about the different foods that developed here versus Europe/America. I was talking with a German volunteer, and we discussed how the reality of having winter meant that we had to develop ways of storing food… from sausages to canning, drying, and excessive uses of salt etc. Whereas here, technically one can grow things all year-round…as long as you have some sort of water source. On the other hand, with all this heat, it’s much harder to preserve things. I remember also from the Rose Hill Manor that people—obviously, this is only people rich enough to have a “manor”—would build a huge cellar, and then in the winter, cut out chunks of ice as the lakes/etc froze over, and put the ice in the cellar, so it was like one huge fridge, that would at least last through most of the summer. Clearly, that’s not an option here. But there are some projects that are trying to encourage more preservation. One volunteer was working on mango-drying, which would preserve the mangos that are so plentiful during their season that many of them go bad before they can be eaten. There was also a project through the Beninese government that taught this woman in another village down south how to can tomatoes. Tomatoes are really ideal, because they are so acidic, you don’t need much fancy equipment to can them, just plenty of boiling water. Her main problem was, however, that when she made and canned tomato sauce, people didn’t buy it because it wasn’t the bright-barnhouse-red color that tomato sauce is when you buy it in the cans from China. So there’s that…

ANYWAY, so on to my actual attempts at butter. I went and bought 1.5 liters of milk—that’s a standard water-bottle here. It’s a little less than a half-gallon, and cost me $1. I brought it home and boiled it. (Apparently cows can have tons of bacteria in their milk, including stuff that can make you have diarrhea, to stuff that can kill you. So yeah, I’m gonna boil all that milk.) This goes along successfully, and then I let it sit and cool for a while, before putting the milk into glass jars I’d cleaned out. I let them sit out on my counter for a while. It’s weird, because I’ve always had this strict idea that milk can absolutely not sit out for a long time, but I don’t think that’s entirely accurate. In the same way that people here never, ever refrigerate eggs, and they’re fine. I think there’s something about milk being pasteurized that requires it to be refrigerated… I don’t exactly know. But people in Colonial Times (currently my official go-to indicator) obviously didn’t refrigerate milk, so I think this milk would be fine. But I eventually gave into my indoctrination of milk needing to be cold, and put it all in my fridge.

I pulled it out the next day, and skimmed off the cream. Which turned out to be a very disappointing amount of cream, for all the milk I got. I was assuming half-ish of milk/cream, but only got a few tablespoons worth of the cream. The method for making butter that I read about was to put it in a jar and shake that jar for a while. So I did. I shook, and I shook and I shook. I looked like one of those people on the “shakeweight” commercials. It was very hard on my muscles, so I couldn’t keep it up for long. But over the course of the day, I probably shook that jar for a good hour total. And it just wouldn’t do it. I had this stupid cream—I actually managed to make whipping cream—but I couldn’t get the butter to separate. I started throwing the jar back and forth between my hands like one might a baseball. “JUST TURN INTO BUTTER!“ I yelled at the cream, but to no avail. The moral of that story was that I never got butter, but all of the muscles in my arms, shoulders, and upper-back hurt for the next 3 days.

I looked on my smartphone, and found a bunch of answers—some contradictory to each other. But the basic recommendation was that I should use cream that has actually sat for a few days—not just one. And it should be at room temperature—just not too hot. It recommended that I store the milk in a “cool room” and I think I laughed at that one for a while. Every single room I have is hot. I don’t have a cellar, sorry. And, oh yeah, I live in Africa. In the Sahel, just south of this huge desert you might have heard of, THE SAHARA.

So I planned on getting more milk and trying again. Letting the cream rise for a longer period of time, etc. So I went to the market and got some more milk, and put it on my stove. Then, the milk curdled right in front of my eyes! “NOOOOOO!” I yelled at the milk, which of course didn’t stop it from curdling. It actually worked out alright, because I basically created my curds and whey, so I strained out the whey, and had my cheese all ready for me, without any other steps. But this kind of ruined my long-term plans. I looked on the internets to figure out what went wrong, but basically every website said, “You’re dumb, you can’t curdle milk just by boiling it.” Umm, I’m sorry, but it just happened. I witnessed it. Wait! OMG I’ve broken the laws of milk-physics! I did finally find one site, though, that said one can curdle milk by boiling it too “vigorously”, whatever that means. But maybe they are just crazy, along with me. Plus, other sites informed me that whey can actually produce cream as well, which you can make into whey butter—different from the normal “sweet butter”.

This just makes me feel like milk is one of those dolls that never end, but just gets smaller and smaller. Like you start off with milk. Then you siphon off the cream. From that you make sweet-butter—and buttermilk (or just whipping cream if your cream is stubborn). Then you can take the skimmed milk, add the buttermilk, and voila! Cheese! But wait, there’s still whey left over. If any cream is still around from the whey, then you can make whey-butter. And from the whey, you can also make ricotta cheese! (Ricotta, apparently means something like “twice-baked”) But then there’s still whey left from that… can I make ricotta-ricotta?

It makes me wonder why humans are naturally programmed to be lactose-intolerant after infancy. Technically, only societies that developed strong herding industries—such as in Europe and West Africa—developed lactose-tolerance for the duration of their lives. But then I realize that the things milk makes—butter, cheese—are actually kind of bad for you. As in clog-up-your-arteries-and-kill-you bad for you. WHY IS LIFE SO CRUEL??? Haha. I wonder, though, if maybe making things myself makes it healthier. Butter, I think it doesn’t matter. It’s cream that’s been shaken around. (Although apparently whey-butter has a lot of protein in it.) But if I skim off the cream, and use THAT to make my cheese… No, it’s not the melty-gooey kind of cheese. But that’s probably the point. I do kind of like the whole idea of not having so many processed items in my cheeses food as well. I’m not sure how that will work out back in the States, though. It’s not like I can find straight-from-the-cow milk for $2/gallon. Also, pretty sure “raw milk” is illegal in many states. Not that I’m objecting, because it’s not like I would particularly enjoy getting sick from milk. Although if I don’t get sick from my boiled raw-West-African-milk, then I’m pretty sure I’ll be fine. Whatever.

So after these attempts, I had to make trips to Natitangou, then Cotonou (for a little medical checkup. The doctors say I’m doing fine, considering). When I get back, I decide to start this whole thing up again. This time I bought the 3 liters of milk again—about $2. I come home, heat it up on the lowest heat possible. Then I put it in this large metal bowl and let it sit out covered overnight until it comes back to room temperature (and, not this does not comply with Pasturization standards, sorry I can’t make and ICE BATH to cool down the milk in Africa.) After that I put it in the fridge for two days.

I finally pull it out, and there is this glorious hunk of cream floating on the top. I probably had between 1 ½ and 2 cups of cream!

So I pull out this hand-cranked food processor I bought ages ago. I mostly got it for the blades, with intentions to make peanut butter. It turned out, however, that it didn’t exactly have the strength to make nuts into butter. However, I have used it to make delicious tomato sauces, or even smoothies, when the current decides to go out, rendering my blender useless.

BUT, the most important part is that this food-processor also came with a device to beat eggs. At first I was like, “This is so stupid, just use a fork…” but after my butter-jar fiasco, I realized that I could actually use this as a churn!!!!

So, I pulled out the cream, and plopped it into my repurposed egg-beater. And I began to whisk around the beater. It was just whipped cream, then it started to get really hard to turn. “This is it!” I think to myself, recalling the various websites that said the whipped cream becomes really hard to shake/churn JUST BEFORE it turns into butter. Then I feel the beater become easier to move, and let it swirl around a few more times before I open the lid.

And lo and behold, I open the lid and see gobs of white things swimming in what looks like skim milk. However, I ask myself, “Is this really it?” WHY DOESN’T IT LOOK BRIGHT YELLOW, AND IN SQUARE FORM??? (Apparently, Jersey cows are more likely to produce yellow-looking butter than any other cows) Plus one place I read said the butter/buttermilk should be about 50/50, and this definitely had way more butter than buttermilk. And I was expecting the buttermilk to look more like whey. So I reason I’ll give the beater a few more rounds, just to have everything properly separate.

But, as the butter gods apparently hate me, what actually happened (according to the internet) was that I beat it so much the butter and buttermilk came back together, and (again, according to the internet), this is something that cannot be undone. So there might have been stamping of feet and gnashing of teeth, plus a few choice words screamed out at my place today.

So once again, I am left with whipping cream, and nothing scrumptious like strawberries to dip in it. Le sigh.

So that’s my milk-adventures up to now. Tomorrow is market day, and I shall be buying more milk and trying again. ONE DAY, this girl will have officially made her own butter. I mean, I guess I technically have already… but whatever.


All of this culinary makes me really, really wish that I had paid a little more attention to my dad cooking. I always had aspirations for him to show me things, and he always agreed. But I was always very lazy about it. I guess I assumed he could always show me later. Actually, right after my dad’s death, my grandmother—Nanny, his mom—came over to my house to show me the recipe for my favorite dish of hers when I was growing up (a pasta/Velveeta casserole). And she sent Velveeta cheese to me, all the way in Benin, and I made it. It was so good!

But I never asked my dad if he did things like make butter or cheese, or if he watched his mom do it. From what I’ve seen on the internets, home-cheese/butter making died off in the 50s or so, so he might have missed it. All I remember about my dad and milk, was that my mom, my sisters and I all drank skim, but I think he saw Skim milk as an affront to life or something. As in it was just water colored white, and if you’re gonna drink milk, damn it, you should drink whole milk.

But more than that, I wish I had paid more attention when he was showing me how to cut meat off a bone. I was always terrible at that. (BUT DAD, I can get boneless chicken in the supermarket, duh.) Maria and I had quite the time when we had—I think—Turkey meat, and attempted to skin it and then cut it off the bone. We both just kind of looked at the meat, our knives, started hacking, pulling, etc. Then after a bit we both look at each other and go, “yeah, neither of us knows what we’re doing, do we?” Then there’s the whole cow-meat issue. I have SOME knowledge from my year working at Outback Steakhouse. I kind of know what a sirloin, tenderloin, porterhouse and t-bone steaks are (approximately). But now Maria and I sometimes plan special meals that involve beef. And we have to figure out which parts to ask for, and how to ask for them in French. I think we spent an hour trying to figure out “tenderloin”. Turns out it’s called, “REAL filet”, vs. a shortloin—an Outback steakhouse’s “Victoria’s Filet” or a “filet mignon”—which is called a “False filet” in French. I think. I’m actually still confused by this. I’m sure my dad could have very easily explained anything dealing with cow-meat and steaks. Or fish. Of course I can only get whole fish here. So I successfully managed to scale it. But I didn’t realize how the scales would fly everywhere—I’m still finding scales around my house. Then I tried to gut it (that basically worked, but GROSS) and filet it. Fail, fail, fail, fail, fail. I gave up and just shredded the fish, and pulled out as many bones as possible. Luckily Maria—being from an island (Puerto Rico), and having once dated a fisherman—actually knows how to filet a fish, so I think she’s going to show me one day.


I did have one major culinary success, however. Maria was actually lucky enough to be at the workstation when one volunteer who was COS-ing (stands for Close of Service, basically, they were leaving), and this volunteer left a hand-cranked meat grinder! We can have ground meat! Amazing! I don’t even generally eat meat anymore, but I still love me a good occasional hamburger, etc. Anyway, we decided we were done trying to figure out what the heck to call the pieces we needed (apparently, certain cuts like the brisket and chuck make better ground beef), and just go for whatever. Which was lucky, since when I arrived, all they had left were the hips, or whatever your would actually call that in proper cow-terms (Round?). So we got that, and made chili with a side of mac n cheese, and it was delicious! I think next we’re going to make beef tacos, so I’m super pumped about that.


Actual Work


So I really do things besides just cooking. Although most of my work can be summed up in: “Le sigh”.

I turned in my grant for the irrigation system. However, with all the delays, there was not enough time to review it before September 25, which is the cut-off date, so Peace Corps can process things for the fiscal year. September 26 I learned this, and subsequently learned that actually Peace Corps is upgrading to a whole new system for submitting grants, which requires all the work to be done online, making the spreadsheet I turned in useless. Oh, and the government shutdown means that I have to wait even longer for this submission form to be ready. So le sigh.

I did, however, get the chance to stop in Parakou on my way to my mid-service medical exam. And I searched around until I was brought to a vetrinarian, who can order baby chicks for me, vaccines, and all the stuff for making feed we would need for healthy chickens. This is super-exciting. I’m basically ready to turn in this grant now. Except I have to wait for the first irrigation grant to be submitted, approved, and all finished (they are both Food Security grants, and thus I can’t have both of them going at the same time). So le sigh.

However, I do have one grant-funded project going! It was actually a program a former volunteer (Thomas) had done with one of the teachers (Constant). It’s a handball tournament. They did one last year, and now we’re doing a new one. Basically, we have a tournament between the four main schools in Kérou. There is both a girls and boys tournament. The teams play back to back, so the opposite gender is there to root on their classmates. Between each match, there is a little time where we discuss issues, this time mostly related to gender and gender relations. For example, the first theme is “Girls in Sports”, where we talk about why it’s important for girls to play sports as well as boys, and what BOTH sexes benefit from the inclusion of girls. We will also talk about sexual relations (if it’s a good idea to start them when still in school), STIs and AIDS, sexual harassment in schools (a huge issue here; teachers sometimes coerce their female students into sleeping with them, and while illegal, this isn’t strictly enforced), and various issues that block the success of girls in school and in work, etc. It’s really fun, actually. I get to watch high-school games. It’s a reminder of how people of every culture can be the same underneath. The girls roll and tie their shorts and tops to make them tighter and more stylish, just like all the girls on my sports team did. They cheer on the boys with various chants. The boys seem too cool to lead girly chants, even though their teachers keep telling them to support their classmates. Both sexes stand on the sidelines during the games, discussing with each other and watching. They clap and jeer and yell “oh!” The teachers/coaches yell advice, which the players promptly disregard, (“Slow the game down! SLOW IT DOWN! Slow—oh come on!”).

Except for the first week, I have chosen a different team to lead the in-between-game discussion, so it’s not just me preaching to them. I went to one school this week, so they could prepare a poster and some ideas. I am excited to see how this works out this Saturday!

My Savings and Loans group is coming along. I printed out individual books where they will get stamped every week they pay their group fee/savings. I also printed out a whole group of papers that essentially make up and accounting book, filled with fees/savings, expenses, fines, loans, and the final “Account Totales”. The idea is to keep blank copies of these; then every year they can go and make more copies, and fill those in over the year, so it keeps going even without me and my computer.

Still, trying to make people understand all of the concepts is difficult. And I’m worried that if someone makes a mistake, they wouldn’t know how to go back and fix it, or even how to figure out what the mistake is. For example, in just the two meetings I missed, they already added things together wrong, which I caught by just adding things together in my head. By head-math seems to be impossible for people. (I think this is sometimes due to the school, which puts may more emphasis on memorization, then being able to look at any set of numbers and add them; or so I’ve been told.) And everything just takes SO. LONG. The totals, done at the end of every meeting should take a total of maybe a whole minute, but actually takes 5 or 10.


So, yeah, things are still chugging along. At a very Beninese pace.

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Benin’s North Dakota

Yikes, I’ve really been slacking on this whole blog-thing. I guess I will just catch you up on a few things, then get back to my somewhat regular postings.

While in Cotonou, I spent one night chilling with some other volunteers and another guy who is doing his Fulbright here in Benin. His boss conveniently has a house in Fidrose beach, which is slightly west of Cotonou, maybe a 15 zem outside the city. It’s a nice, three-story house, that is rented for about what one would pay to rent a one-bedroom apartment in New York or D.C. And it’s only a block away from the beach. The best part is that there are no hurricanes to worry about here! Unfortunately, the beaches here aren’t terribly friendly, and in fact can be super dangerous with their very strong undertow. I guess you can’t have everything. But one day I want a beach house. In Africa or the Caribbean, or somewhere. Oh dreaming…

So I finally escaped Cotonou the 20th of July. My doctor said that I can continue with the exercises on my own. Although, knowing the level of pain these induce, and my lack of self-motivation, I can only assume this will not work out as well as he expects. Although, I do have the threat from my doctor that if things don’t improve by the time I come back in September for a check-up, I will be forced to stay in Cotonou longer.

I really admire anyone having to do physical therapy. All I did was tear a little ligament (I mean, we think that’s what it was). And it HURTS. I have gotten to the point where I can bend my fingers back most of the way, but it’s still really hard to close them to the front.

I kind of feel weak, though. People here persevere through so much. One day, my doctor and I were just making conversation, and he mentions that he was amazed by Bariba women (he actually worked in Kérou years ago, but left because he wanted to be a specialist, and there’s no demand for those in villages). When they are having a baby, they don’t even make a sound. NOT A SOUND. They just pop out that baby, then take a moto home. And it’s not just Beninese people that say it—volunteers here have witnessed it too. Of course, the next day, when we are sitting doing exercises on my hand, he pushed it far enough that I started crying from the pain. Which I think freaked him out (“I made a girl cry! What do I do now!?!?!?). Come on, Shannon, FIGHT THROUGH THE PAIN LIKE A GOOD BENINESE WOMAN.

On a related note, I recently read an article that featured a hospital in eastern or southern Africa (I forget where exactly) that has started charging women for every scream they make. WHAT!? Just another reminder of how blessed I am to have that American birth certificate. Lord knows that whenever I am ready to have kids, they will absolutely be born in the US. And I will use and epidural. End of discussion!

Speaking of, my neighbors actually had a baby soon after I got back. I get up to go to my meeting at 7:30 in the morning, and the mom is standing at the doorway, with people coming to visit. She has just arrived home, and tells me she had the baby around midnight. AND SHE’S ALREADY LEFT THE HOSPITAL. She’s standing there, looking very tired and worn out, and all I can think is, “Please, someone, let this poor woman lie down!”

The baby didn’t have a name yet when I asked, so the dad actually comes over and asks me to help him pick a name. He says very specifically he doesn’t want something at all typical for Benin. So I looked up names that were at the top of the US naming charts for the past year. One of the finalists was Gavin, which is of course the modern form of the name Gawain, as in Sir Gawain and the Green Knight (a middle-English story once translated by J.R.R. Tolkien). On a whim, I wrote down the name Orlando, as in Orlando Bloom, who played Legolas in The Lord of the Rings, and the love of my life when I was 13 or so years old. And. That. Is. The. Name. They. Chose. I should never, ever, ever be given this kind of power. Although, perhaps now that I have gotten my tribute-naming out of the way (Orlando for LotR, and Luna for Harry Potter), I can move on and my kids will have a chance of having normal, acceptable names. And I defend my decision, Orlando is a nice name, and the kid won’t ever have to know where it came from. I mean, seeing as people in Kérou have only now gotten around to watching 80s Kung-Fu movies, it will be a while before LotR makes it here.

Monday, 5 August 2013


Today I was a twenty-minute walk from home, sitting at a bar, chilling, reading, and occasionally talking to people I knew who came through. Then I looked up at the sky, and saw the Eastern sky grow dark, and a bunch of clouds rolling in. “Oh no!” I thought. So quickly I got up, paid my tab and rushed out the door, and headed home. I was walking quickly, and got to fifteen minutes away, and it starts sprinkling. Ten minutes away, and the skies simply opened up. I most likely let out a string of curse words that would shock my grandmothers and make my mom roll her eyes and say sternly, “Shannon, STOP using that language!” However, it turned out that cursing the skies was completely unnecessary, because a few minutes later, this old man ran up with a huge plaid umbrella and handed it to me. So I was able to walk the whole rest of the way home without getting soaked! How very nice of him. Some days I really do love this little village.

Friday, 23 August 2013


So I’ve been pretty unmotivated to write my blog lately.  Mostly it is because I’ve actually been super-busy, and when I do get a free moment, I like to do other things. Like read English books and French books (while expanding my French vocabulary). I’ve also started studying Spanish, because I’ve decided that I am never actually coming home. Once I’m done with my time here in Benin, I want to get a Fulbright to go to the Dominican Republic. And if that doesn’t work, I want to just move to Puerto Rico. Because I can.

[Then that plan of course alternates with wanting a real job so I can live in a nice place that actually freaking has a dishwasher and laundry machine. Then other days I want to be a inner-city school teacher, because it’s always something I’ve been passionate about, and I just rewatched an episode of The Wire.]

My new best friend is Excel. I’m using it for all kinds of calculations, as well as putting together booklets for my savings and loans group.

Projects are starting to role along pretty well. My new Savings and Loans group is up and running. We’ve started collecting money and writing down all the by-laws. I want to have a very disciplined group, especially in light of the original Savings and Loans group (Ben Club) in Kérou. I spent four hours today trying to figure out why they are off by 2,200F (about $4.40). I finally found 2,000 of it, but I still can’t find the other 200. Oh well.

But with this new group I am insisting that they count the money every single meeting. One person complained that it was too much, but I explained that with the book I designed, it should take all of 30 seconds at the end of a meeting. And if there is a problem, then you know it happened recently, not two months ago! Plus I have this suspicion that someone embezzled some money in the first group, since a few months ago about $160 went missing. And I double-checked the math, everything. But when I talked to some of the artisans, no one really wanted to go down that path of searching it out. They just kind of accepted the loss. Since then, however, I’ve been checking things more often, and the money seems to be sticking around better. It could also just be that people didn’t write down everything. Like there was one time that an individual artisan had paid for some new booklets for the group to get printed. He paid out of his pocket, and instead reimbursing him, they just credited that amount to his weekly membership fees. But this never made it into the accounting book that I made, until I happened to catch this by chance. It’s things like that.

Another thing that has me spending a lot of time in Excel is working with this guy I met who wants to start a restaurant here in Kérou. He currently works as the chef for the Hotel (I guess you can call it that?) in Kérou, but wants to break out on his own. So I’ve been talking to him about all of the start-up costs, and whether it will truly be profitable, etc. We finally concluded that to start he needs over 1 million CFA (about $2,000). He can get a loan, but for that he needs to have 20% of the amount he wants to borrow already in the bank. And he has nowhere NEAR that kind of money. It’s only the equivalent of $400. But compare that to the less $800 per YEAR that teachers here make. Or that minimum wage is $30 per month. So yeah. Now that he’s realized the investment, our next meeting will be discussing where he can start cutting back. For example, instead of the concrete sitting areas (gazebo-shaped) he wants to make, he can make straw gazebos like a bar I saw in another town. Maybe not get the generator immediately, but definitely by the time Chaleur rolls around. Because if people know you always have cold beers when it’s 120 degrees outside…they will come!!!!

I spent time running around Kérou researching the irrigation project I want to do. I’m kind-of (and by kind-of I mean completely) running blind here. I went to a solder to ask if he could make the watering-head thing for the hoses (what are those called in English again?), and then asked him about the price of metal piping to go along the length of the field, and how much it would cost for him to come and solder everything together. Then a few days later, I met with a guy who works for SONEB, which is basically the national water-supply company. He tells me I’m crazy for thinking I would use metal pipes, and of course we would be using PBC plastic pipes. So, just typical time-wasting for me. He gave me an estimate a few days later of what this project will cost (not including the hoses and watering-head things). I was blown away, not because the supplies will cost about $1,200, but then he turns around and asks for $1,000 for himself, as main d’œuvre fees. Now in the States that’s reasonable, probably even low. But don’t forget here, TIME IS NOT MONEY; it’s not valued as much. For example, the solder I talked to had put his price of coming to the field and physically soldering together 200 meters of pipe at $120. Even Hubert said the price was high, and that everyone knows that as a rule of thumb, fees for work are usually calculated to be at 1/3 of the price of supplies. So tomorrow we will be going back to talk to the guy. I made some changes to the design that he made that I think will help reduce some of the cost of supplies. Then, of course, we will talk about reducing his fee. By a lot. And Hubert mentioned that if he doesn’t go for it, we can always ask someone in Nati. I hope it doesn’t come to that, because I am already starting to stress over how much time this is taking before I can even submit the grant. Then it still takes time for things to be processed, for me to get the money, etc, etc. I want to finish this up quickly, before the dry season, so the women can actually use it.

Additionally, once it’s done I want to apply for another grant for the chicken-raising I’ve been talking about doing. I have to complete the first one before starting the second one. Now, it actually works out, since I want to have to first one done by the beginning of the dry season or shortly thereafter. But to reduce costs, we’ve decided to build the chicken coop with mud bricks instead of cement, and then only cover them with a layer of cement to protect the structure from the elements. And mud bricks can’t be made until some time into the dry season, when the rivers start to disappear, leaving behind….wait for it…MUD!!!

I am really excited for both of these projects. They really seem what people here want. I remembered from the very first day that I met the Fétékou women that they told me how hard their work in the garden was. Hubert commented to me that he did not realize how hard the women’s work was. Maybe they didn’t mention it to him. I wish I could be getting more input from them on what they want, and how to design it, but I don’t even know if they would know what they need. So I’m basing it off the one system I saw visiting another post, and hopefully it works!

Sunday, 25 August 2013


I swear, there are so many days that I feel like I am living in redneck territory, here in Benin. Maria joked that it was “Benin’s Dakota.” I mean, life here does primarily revolve around agriculture, so it makes sense. And the climate is absolutely horrendous, alternating between absurdly cold (for Africa), and unbearably hot. I mean the redneck thing in the stereotypes, and in both the good and bad ways. Good, because people are super-nice and friendly. Like the guy who gave me his umbrella. Or the vet who has promised to drive all the way to Natitangou, just to get rabies vaccinations for Maria’s and my cats. Life is slower, more relaxed. But sometimes—maybe a lot of the time—people are so backwards. I think about Appalachia country, where people are so very poor and don’t have access to education as much. It’s the same here, like Pierre who had to walk miles to get to school. There is such a conservative mindset, ESPECIALLY when it comes to women. “Women’s place is the home.” End of discussion. [Oh, and men only make up only 30% of the whole population of Benin, so that’s why the HAVE to be polygamous. You know, to satisfy all those women! How chivalrous of them! And yes that is a “fact” I have heard multiple times from different people]

The most recent example was this (albeit VERY DRUNK) guy yesterday, who harassed Maria and I at the buvette.

Drunk guy: “Excuse me. WHAT do you think about women who wear their hair like white people?”
Me: “What?”
Drunk guy: “In weaves. Women who wear weaves.”
Me: “Well…”
Drunk guy: “Well, I think it’s terrible. I DO NOT allow my wife to wear a weave, like those other wannabe white-women floosies.” [Okay, I’m not sure if “floosie” is a word in French, but if it were, he would have definitely used it here.]
Me (tipsy and enraged): “Who are you to tell your wife what she can and cannot do?”
Other men in the bar: “Duh, we always tell our wives what to do. Maybe where you come from, women do what they want, but not here!”
Then the drunk guy starts talking about his plethora of wives, the first two of which left him for some unknown reason (probably because he was an asshole, and I suspect he beat them)
Me: “Well, why do you shave your head? Are you embarrassed by your African hair?”
Drunk guy: “I shave my head because my father always shaved his head. I’m a traditionalist!”
Me: “Well I’m here to make change. So we will never agree, so maybe you should just leave me alone”

The guy at this point gets up, walks over to Maria, and demands that she answer his questions. She tries to shrug him off, by saying that neither of them will change the other’s mind, so why is he even trying to discuss these things? Then he storms around the bar, yelling about how he hates white people, and he hates development, and why can’t all the white people just go away and stop ruining his country? Then he comes back to Maria and I, and starts talking about how he’s been in prison. And suddenly, I had this flashback to a camping trip with my family, where we ended up in a Deliverance-themed park, next to a group of very drunk people, who were throwing whole pellets of wood on a fire, and yelling about their own prison experiences.

Because think about it. Replace “white people” with any non-WASP racial or ethnic group in the states (i.e. black people, Irish people, Asian people, Mexicans, etc). And suddenly you have a typical American racists talking about how blacks or whoever are just stirring up trouble, and trying to ruin America for the “Real Americans”.

But as each one of you are aware, not every person in America—even in rural America—is a racist and/or chauvinistic prick. I just have to remember that whenever someone here makes me mad. I want to yell at them, tell them their wrong, but obviously that will do as much good as yelling at a brick wall. I need to just stop and think about how my aunt—who is one of the most absolutely wonderful people in the world—is proud of her West Virginia heritage, and is probably offended by some of my previous paragraphs. Or one of my good friends from school grew up in Kansas, likes country music (horrors), and yet fit right in with our mix-match of international friends.

There are plenty of people here that are dedicated to improving their lives and ideas. For example, I have a friend named Louise, who is 14. Her father insists that she and all her sisters go to school—something that doesn’t always happen here. He isn’t trying to marry her off quickly, and in fact discourages her from needing suitors or whatever.

And there are definitely people who are willing to listen and change. Also yesterday, I had a conversation on two separate occasions with people about calling me “batoori”. I told them that I didn’t like being called Batoori, and they responded. “But you are. You are white.” I then asked them that if they came to the States if they would like it if everyone ran up to them, pointed, and yelled, “Black Person! Black Person!” They thought about it and said, “You know what, you are right. I would hate that.” So I told them my name, and to call me that instead if they saw me again.

I really should stop being argumentative with drunk men. Not only are they drunk and therefore less reasonable, but here they also have more of an issue with being corrected by women, and feel the need to “man-splain” their point. [I HAVE A PENIS! ERGO, I AM RIGHT!] I think, though, this country could have some good brought to it by women who actually stand up to men. Another volunteer was recounting a story where on a taxi, a man demanded that this other girl give him one of her cookies, and she agreed, probably because she felt she could not say no. Then the guy asked the volunteer, and when she refused he tried to grab for them. This erupted into a whole debacle. And in the courting rituals, some men seem to be under the impression that “no” means “try harder”, and “never call me again” means “call me 5 times a day, even at 3 in the morning, until I break down and give in.” [true story, except for the giving-in part]

It seems really hard to find the balance, though. How much am I hear to spread ideas and practices, and how much am I hear to learn about and accept different points of view? I certainly don’t want to adopt that paternalistic attitude of “helping the poor, backwards Africans.” But should I try to encourage people to view “time is money”, or should I accept their more laid-back regimens? Should I tell them that women or equal, or allow that here, it’s the man’s job to care for the family?

Because not everything is black and white. For example, many of us are horrified by the idea of women wearing hijabs. “SO OPPRESSIVE!” we say. However, there are arab feminists who differ, and say that maybe western women are the ones that are actually oppressed. For women who wear hijabs, their body is their own. They can walk down the street, and people can’t see all of their forms, their skin, etc. They have to judge them by their speech and actions, not if they have a sexy body. Meanwhile, western women are forced everyday to look perfect: to wear makeup, have their hair styled, wear exactly the right clothes, be exactly the right shape. Their bodies belong to the world, to constantly be judged

So for me, it’s more about creating an environment where each and every person makes their own choices and their own destiny. I want to focus less on yelling at asshole men, and more about empowering women to take control. Or not, if they choose to let a man take care of them instead. Less on lecturing people on business, and more on giving them multiple ideas for success, from which they can choose. Less on getting angry at racists, and more on just discussing things with people, so they can see my point of view, and tell me about theirs. I guess those are the goals! It’s really hard to have the patience, but we’ll see.

Tuesday, 10 September 2013



Just as an update on my projects: So I had Hubert call in another person involved with irrigation. This guy is from Natitangou, but someone with whom Hubert has worked before. He came to Kérou, saw the site, and then talked with us about what we wanted to do. Then he gave us his estimate. The PVC equipment will cost around $800, vs. the $1200 the original guy was asking. Then, this guy ONLY ASKED FOR $200 DOLLARS for his “technical services”. I was so overjoyed. There are some added expensive, for example I will be paying a little over $100 for his travel and lodging, plus I have to pay for the transport of materials. But still, it works out to be considerably cheaper than the guy from Kérou. AND, I even doubled the amount of hoses in the garden—so that more women can work at once. It’s so much better. I feel awesome that I’m not being taken advantage of, and so HAHA to the greedy man, GUESS YOU’RE NOT GETTING EVEN ONE FRANC, JERK! Now I’ve submitted everything to Peace Corps, and just have to wait around for it to all get approved. Yay, progress!
And finally, some pictures for your enjoyment:

Luna, sleeping in the sun


Luna, trying to make a friend


Me, with various "artisans", aka the mechanics, solders, masons I always talk about.
These are the more prominent leaders